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72 p r a c t i c a l w i n e r y & v i n e ya r d a p r i l 2 0 1 4 Low Medium High Fruit Intensity Subtle Flavorful Bold FlavorFul The vast majority of wines, white and red, fall into the moderate cat- egory of intensity. Among whites, this group includes those made from aromatic grapes, like Sauvignon Blanc, and those whose flavor is boosted with new oak, such as barrel-fermented Chardonnay. The short contact with red grape skins that gives rosé wines their color is almost always enough to boost their flavor into this category. The majority of red wines belong here as well. Modest, everyday reds from almost all grapes, including Merlot and Grenache, are of moderate intensity by design. Fine wines are more variable since intensity is desirable. However, moderate intensity is found in almost all of the paler red wines made from thin- skin grapes regardless of pedigree. Moderate intensity is also strongly associated with cool-climate growing regions, like New Zealand, and with food-oriented styles (the European cul- tural preference), as with French Bor- deaux or Italian Montepulciano. Low Medium High Fruit Intensity Subtle Flavorful Bold Bold T h e s e c o n d most common c a t e g o r y i s h i g h f r u i t intensity, with v iv id s m e l l s and potent fla- vor. Very few white or sparkling wines are intense enough in fruit to be classi- fied here, but many red wines are. The majority of bold reds are ambi- tious premium wines made with thick- skin grapes or grown in warm, sunny regions, like Australia's Barossa Valley. The same kind of winery techniques used to boost color depth will also boost flavor intensity. In the vineyard, very low yields or very old vines can also increase wine concentration, as with Spanish Priorat or old vine Zinfandel. Almost all dessert wines or fortified wines are high-inten- sity wines, regardless of color. Only a handful of uncommon white grape vari- eties are pungent enough to have high flavor intensity, like Moscato and GewÜrztraminer. b o o k e x c e r p t When it comes to fruit, the most impor- tant question is: How intense is it? The fruit component is essentially a wine's flavor quotient per square inch, or flavor density. Is it subtle and delicate or bold and pungent? Low Medium High Fruit Intensity Subtle Flavorful Bold SuBtle Low fruit inten- sity in wine is t he least com- mon of the cate- gor ies, la rgely because it is limited to white and spar- kling wines. The majority of sparkling wines, like Champagne and Prosecco, can be classified as subtle. Young, un oaked white wines from grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio are those most likely to be of low fruit intensity, particularly those from cooler regions. Low intensity should not be con- fused with low quality. It is true that many of the cheapest sub- tle wines can seem "bland," but well- made subtle wines can be masterful in their restraint and food-friendliness, as with French Chablis or Spanish Albariño. View this issue on your tablet, smartphone or online at winesandvines.com/digitaledition Wines & Vines Digital Edition w w w . w i n e s a n d v i n e s . c o m