Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/279499
p r a c t i c a l w i n e r y & v i n e ya r d a p r i l 2 0 1 4 71 b o o k e x c e r p t What is a wine taster to do? • Use 'indirect' metaphors to describe the aromatic character Since smells are hard to describe, wine professionals often talk about them by talking around them — by comparing wine aromas to more familiar items or experiences they remind us of. Saying that a wine tastes "like green apples" or smells "peppery" indirectly communi- cates a complex and useful idea very efficiently. Unfortunately, indirect terms are easier for listeners than speakers, and profi- ciency requires experience and a deep vocabulary. Beginners can manage by starting with catch-all terms for groups of similar smells and flavors; category words like "earthy," "spicy," "floral" or "herbal" encompass ranges of related scents. Sub- sets of fruit are frequently used, such as "red berries" for cool-climate red wines, or "tropical fruits" for warm-climate white wines. • Use direct terminology to describe aroma source and aromatic intensity There are near-infinite numbers of dis- tinct aromas and flavors in wine that we can discuss indirectly. In order to describe wine's smells more objectively, it is helpful to group these by their source and evaluate their strength on a simple power scale. Two olfactory wine components are routinely assessed objectively in direct terms: Fruit component — Includes all of the diverse scents and flavors in wine that come from grapes and fermenta- tion. All wines feature a fruit compo- nent, and it is the main source of wine's olfactory impact. Oak component — Includes only fla- vors and scents derived from the use of oak barrels or barrel alternatives in winemaking. Not all wines will have an oak component, since many wines are made without coming in contact with wood. Among those that do, oak is usually not the dominant feature. Fruit The first thing to note about "fruit" in the wine world is that the fruit compo- nent does not always smell like fruit alone. When we talk about a wine's fruit component, we mean the totality of the scents and f lavors that derive from grapes and winemaking. The fruit com- ponent is wine's primary olfactory fea- ture and is always present, but it may vary in intensity. Think of "fruit" in this sense as an umbrella category that encompasses a wide range of wine flavors and scents. It includes plenty of fruit-like flavors, such as the pineapple aroma of ripe Chardon- nay or the sour cherry flavor of Chianti. But in wine lingo, non-fruit flavors and odors are considered part of the wine's "fruit" too, as long as their source is grapes or fermentation. Whether we are talking about a pep- pery flavor in Syrah, an herbal scent in Sauvignon Blanc, a bready taste in Cham- pagne or a floral smell in Moscato, it is all part of the fruit component. Luckily, we do not need to be able to describe what a wine smells like to evalu- ate the fruit component. For our pur- poses, we only need to assess the intensity of the fruit component. Why? It can be fun to play "name that smell," but it is not always helpful. Assessing the intensity is not just eas- ier to learn, it is also more practical. There is a strong correlation between fruit intensity and other wine character- istics that allows us to draw useful con- clusions. Asking for a dark, boldly flavored red wine is more productive than asking for one that smells like figs or blueberries.