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p r a c t i c a l w i n e r y & v i n e ya r d a p r i l 2 0 1 4 73 Oak Oak barrels have been used in winemak- ing for centuries. Originally, they were needed purely for practical purposes; oak vats, casks and barrels were the natural choice to serve as large-scale containers for liquids like wine, beer and spirits. Aside from being highly pragmatic, these oak barrels imbued wines with a distinc- tive toasty smell reminiscent of dessert spices and caramelized nuts. Today barrels are still used in wine- making, even though they are expensive and not as efficient as steel tanks. Why? It is helpful to think of oak as a seasoning, an accent flavor. While chefs can add herbs and spices to jazz up their recipes, wine must be 100% grape juice. Fermenting or aging wine in new oak barrels is the most common way winemakers can add a different flavor to wine than the flavor that came from the grapes. Oak qualities are desirable in some styles, such as premium red wines and full-bodied whites, but unnecessary for others, like lighter whites and spar- kling wines. Oak has a distinctive range of flavors and smells that is very narrow compared to the diversity found in wine's fruit component. In addition to smelling "woody" like premium lumber, new oak barrels can add to wine more appetizing flavors like vanilla, dessert spices, coco- nut, toffee, popcorn, pickling spices and toasted nuts. Saying that wood tastes good may sound funny, but oak in particular is known for its pleasing aromatics. To pic- ture what oak tastes like, think about the so-called "brown spirits" like whiskey and brandy, which are also deliberately aged in oak. Identifying oak in wine takes a little practice but is well worth the effort. Some people love it and are willing to pay extra for wines that feature a strong oak com- ponent. Others are less impressed and prefer their wines to express pure fruit flavor without the distraction of oak. Since achieving an oaky flavor requires a vintner to buy a lot of expensive bar- rels and to age the wines longer before bottling and selling, a wine's oakiness has an impact on its price as well. Once we have learned to recognize it, we can seek it out or avoid it, depending on our personal preferences or what we are serving it with. American and French oak barrels You may see wine reviews or back labels mentioning the type of oak used. French oak is the most traditional, the most prized, and therefore the most expensive. Using American oak is a more recent innovation that has similar effects but imparts a noticeably different set of aro- matics to the wine. To picture the flavors associated with wine aged in French oak barrels, think of the subtle flavors of French Cognac, reminiscent of roasted nuts. American oak barrels give wine a flavor that seems a little sweeter and stronger, more cara- melized and dessert-like, more like the smell of a good Bourbon, but with a lit- tle less char. Low Medium High Oak Intensity Unoaked Mild Oak Oaky unoaked This term refers t o w i n e s i n which oak plays no olfactory role, a nd a l l f lavor a nd s ce nt a re derived from the fruit component alone. Typically, this means wines that have been fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, like Pinot Grigio and most Sauvignon Blancs. The majority of white wines have no oak presence at all, especially those from Europe and other cool climates. Char- donnay wines are the exception, since they are more often oaked. However, some are unoaked as a rule, like French white Burgundies from Cha- blis and Macon-Villages, or those Char- d o n n a y s l a b e l e d w i t h t e r m s l i k e "unwooded" or "naked." Virtually all sparkling wines and rosé wines are uno- aked. Very few red wines are "unoaked," and these are typically young, modestly- priced wines from Europe that are lighter bodied than average, such as entry-level Italian Chianti and French Beaujolais. Low Medium High Oak Intensity Unoaked Mild Oak Oaky Mild oak Most wines that s e e oa k t reat- me nt pic k up some detectable oak flavors and scents, but not enough to have a forceful aromatic pres- ence. Like a tiny splash of cognac in a sauce, the woody, nutty and spicy flavor of oak adds depth and complexity to many wines. b o o k e x c e r p t