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52 WINES&VINES January 2017 VIEWPOINT GAI SINCE 1946 BOTTLING LINES FROM 1.000 TO 15.000 B/H: frazione Cappelli, 33/b 12040 Ceresole d'Alba (Cn) Italy - tel. +39 0172 574416 gai@gai-it.com - www.gai-it.com Scriba Studio / ph Paolo Marchisio MACCHINE IMBOTTIGLIATRICI Quality we design it, we built it, we bottle it WINES & VINES 7.625x4.875 [2017]:Layout 1 28-11-2016 20:06 Pagina 1 ing to Agence Bio 2014 and Wine Institute stats. In comparison, the United States makes less than 2% of organic-labeled wine (versus 11% overall). Imported organic wines already are making their mark with American consumers. In 2016, organic wine grew 11% by volume; imported organic wines grew 14%, double that of Ameri- can organic producers at 7%. Foreign organic wine revenues grew more than domestic or- ganic in revenue, generating 14% growth in dollars (versus 9% for domestic). Bronco reads the (organic) tea leaves This could be viewed as an opportunity. Is it time to go boldly forward? Seize the day? One winery is reading the organic tea leaves— and that is JFJ Bronco Winery. Owner and presi- dent Fred Franzia (aka Mr. Two-Buck Chuck) announced in 2016 that he's committed to organ- ics in a big way, converting 5,000 of his 40,000 acres of vines to CCOF certification and replacing glyphosate with French plows. He's already (al- beit quietly) a major player in organics, selling more than 140,000 cases per year of his Green Fin wines at Trader Joe's for $4-$5 per bottle. Bronco's newly certified acreage will go into its Rare Earth brand, also sold at Trader Joe's. Franzia could wind up selling as much as 400,000 cases of organically grown wines each year. The takeaway: Hedge your bets? For years, consumers bought organic foods to avoid agrichemicals and additives. Wine wasn't considered risky because no one had tested it for glyphosate. Glyphosate now has the potential to be a game changer, creating new risks for the wine industry. Will consumers want to steer clear of products known to contain glyphosate? Espe- cially when, unlike organic food, there's no price premium for organically grown wines? Any activist group can send wine out to be tested (for $100 per bottle) and publish the results online. Food Democracy Now did this for food, citing Cheerios and Doritos for their levels of glyphosate, a story that made the Daily Mail in the U.K. Luckily for wineries that are interested in exploring this market, there is the option to launch a new brand and start small. Chateau Ste. Michelle has been doing just that. The Washington state-based company owns the Sno- qualmie ECO wine brand, which boasts 300 acres of vines producing 20,000 cases of wine "Made with Organic Grapes" wine annually. That's one way for big wineries to put a toe in the water. The knowledge of how to grow, make and market these wines would stand a winery in good stead if consumer demand for the or- ganically grown wine category suddenly heats up. As any good marketer knows, markets are conversations. In France, the conversation has led to being 9% organic. Is there a clear path here in the U.S. for growth? Time will tell. But if wineries don't start now and get ready, they may miss the boat—the one the European wineries are already on. Pam Strayer is an Oakland, Calif.-based wine writer specializing in organically grown and Biodynamic wines. She is the former editor in chief of major health websites including Healthcentral with Dr. Dean Edell, DNA.com and DNA Direct as well as WebMD's genetics channels for physicians. There is the option to launch a new brand and start small. That's one way for big wineries to put a toe in the water.