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WINEMAKING senting Biodynamics' four principles:6 1. Create a closed system of nutrients and natural resources base to the great- est practical extent. Become aware of the waste stream and capture and transform it into a fertility stream. 2. Creating biodiversity on the proper- ty. Monoculture undermines a property's ability to resist adversity. Balance the suc- cess of various life forms in an ecosystem so outbreaks of disease are generally held in check. 3. The preparations, two field sprays (one on the soil and one foliar) and six compost preps. These support and main- tain life forces. Life comes from life. How- ever, life loses vitality and loses the ability to bring forth life. The preps aren't fertil- izers, but they are supportive of life pro- cesses such as sprouting, growing, flower- ing and fruiting. 4. Promotion of a holistic system that focuses on the interaction of all living things. We try to avoid acting against a specific problem, because when we do so, we produce unintended consequenc- es. Instead, we try to work towards en- hancing the robustness and health of the whole environment for the benefit of the whole ecology. D E S I G N P L A N N I N G M A N A G E M E N T This is mostly good common sense. The problematic, emblematic aspects of Biodynamics are those darned prepa- rations. Think about it. Without them, Demeter certification is not available. It's an open question how much certi- fied Biodynamic growers really believe in the preps. By analogy, you can't get admitted into the Catholic Church un- less you drink the wine and chew the wafer, but does that cement a firm belief in trans-substantiation? Long-time practitioner Tony Coturri thinks Steiner reestablished for us an intui- tive relation to agriculture by articulating his clairvoyance of our deep connection to nature. The horn ceremony reminds us of that connection. I am willing to give the benefit of the doubt to Matthieu Chapoutier of the Rhône Valley when he says, "Where the Biodynamic method is innovative is in its use of scientific knowledge to reach the best quality by knowing when the vine needs something, and what it needs." Sooner or later, Matt needs to put up or shut up, but perhaps we owe him a decade or two of experience in the system. In the meantime I appreciate his commitment to some sort of standard of proof. NA VIGA TION Beyond the almighty consumer One year into this column it's high time to confess that, pretty much without excep- tion, I adore winemakers. This is a special industry. Nobody with a lick of sense is in this game for the money. Our individual vi- sions lead us all down different paths, and the consequences of each dream get shaken out in the marketplace, Darwin-style. Putting it that way makes our passions sound saner than they are. Yet George Ber- nard Shaw told us, "Nothing is ever ac- complished by a reasonable man," and our industry seems bent on proving it. Some- thing about winemaking encourages ex- ploration, and our knowledge progresses largely through risky, outrageous experi- ments. In part, that's just good business. Wineries are constantly called upon to generate new media-worthy stories. But there's more to the story. "If every California grower were required to live with their family in the middle of their vineyard, you'd see a lot more organic farming," says Tony Norskog of Orleans Hill. Scoring Steiner A report card for Biodynamic winegrowing is pretty hard to come by. It would be dif- ficult to invent a methodology more zany YOUR CHEMICAL DISTRIBUTOR OF CHOICE WINERY PRODUCTION HOSPITALITY ESTATES acidulants, alkalis, clarifying agents, vitiben, yeast, and other food grade and cleaning chemicals S T R A T A A R C H I T E C T U R E A P www.STRATAap.com S T R A T E G I C D E S I G N S T U D I O A R C H I T E C T U R E B R A N D D E V E L O P M E N T B R A N D D E V E L O P M E N T www.strataap.com S O N O M A, C A L I F O R N I A 7 0 7. 9 3 5. 7 9 4 4 RICHMOND, CALIFORNIA 877/229-6305 Fax: 510/235-4182 FRESNO, CALIFORNIA 559/485-4150 Fax: 559/485-0605 QSEE US AT UNIFIED, BOOTH #1320 QSEE US AT UNIFIED, BOOTH #1709 Wines & Vines JAnUARY 2011 135