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WINEMAKING Linda Bisson, professor of viticulture and enology at UC Davis and one of the researchers working on the project, says they are looking at what characteristics are lost or retained by grape variety. They are also looking at the character and structure of tannins in flashed wines. Bis- son is particularly interested in the effect of flash on Pinot Noir. Researchers have collected samples of the original must, the flash water and the must after flashing, and they will also analyze wines post-fermentation. The analysis is ongoing, but Bisson says that based on some preliminary sensory analy- sis, she thinks the process results in more intense but less complex fruit characters. In Pinot Noir, she says, flashing amplifies spiciness but reduces the intensity of any floral notes. And Bisson adds that even if the end product is less complex, "you've gotten rid of the negative stuff." She suspects that some volatile components will come back eventually, if they exist in a bound (or glycosylated) form. But pyrazines don't exist in that form. From red to purple During a harvest-time visit, Laumann pointed to a tank of Monterey Wine Co. Pinot Noir. "This is our marketing tank," Laumann says. He had sent oak dust through the flash process with the grapes—which, he says, helps stabilize the color—then fermented the grapes on the skins. He's shown the wine to a number of winemakers. "Just the color shift" from red to more purple tones "gets them go- ing," Laumann says. We tasted several samples of flashed Pinot. One, which had been pressed and fermented without the skins, showed a lot of sweet, nouveau-style fruit. Laumann called it "a fabulous blending component." Another sample, which had been fermented on the skins, was dark and structured, but its flavors were unmistakably Pinot Noir. As for the color, Bisson notes that a stable purple hue in Pinot Noir "in today's market is not a disadvantage." Laumann adds that winemakers looking to enhance the color in their Pinots can flash part of the blend and make a wine that is 100% Pinot, rather than adding a percentage of, say, Syrah. "Who is more of a purist?" he says. "I would rather have (flashed Pinot) as a blending tool than use Syrah," says Hahn's Clifton. French research indicates that Flash Détente not only accelerates and increases QSEE US AT UNIFIED, BOOTH #2417 Wines & Vines JAnUARY 2011 41 Devoted grape grower seeks serious buyer Object: Supply the wine grapes or bulk wine you need Likes: Working in my vineyard; enjoying great Sonoma County wine with family and friends We can help you find your ideal match — the right grower for your needs, from those perfect Chardonnay or other grapes to quality bulk wine. Who knows, it could lead to a rewarding long-term relationship. Get to know our grape growers at SonomaWineGrape.org. Need grapes? Find the grapes or bulk wine you want, in one central location, any- time, day or night at the Sonoma County Grape Marketplace: SonomaWineGrape.org/marketplace Looking for a perfect match?