Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/696561
56 WINES&VINES July 2016 GRAPEGROWING clones to St. George rootstock initially, but after some research he added less-vigorous 101-14 to the mix. But the team decided that grafting FPS 30 "See clone" Cabernet Sauvignon scions onto St. George rootstock could counter the rootstock's vigor and reduce yields. According to Hobbs, "Shatter was often a problem, but rarely perva- sive. On average," he adds, "we dropped 40% to 60% of the crop at early to mid-enlargement phase. Occasionally, we would drop fruit a second time during lag phase." The vineyard team routinely drops green fruit when the grapes reach 90% of véraison. Hyde Vineyards general manager Chris Hyde (son of owner Larry Hyde) says, "We handle canopy work at different times, as varieties are on different schedules." The vineyard team opens up the Cabernet Sauvignon canopy later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir canopies because bud break and physiological maturity occur later in the season. "Less vigor is beneficial for Bordelaise here," he says. "We try to achieve balance in the can- opy and the right yield with the least amount of manipulation. Achieving balance is key." But for Larry Hyde, who has planted two- thirds of the vineyard with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, cool-climate grapes reflect the character of the region. "If you wish to pro- duce Pinot Noir in the Napa Valley, you need to find the coolest climate," he says. "In a word: Carneros." Education in the vineyard Assistant winemaker at Robert Mondavi and a vice president at Simi before he launched his own label in 1991, Hobbs returned to Hyde Vineyard dozens of times each year to learn more about the grower's craft. "At the time, I was focused on the winery," Hobbs recalls. "So he accelerated my education in the vineyard." These days, Hobbs walks the vineyard every seven to 10 days during the height of the grow- ing season and meets with Larry and Chris Hyde to select shoots, drop fruit and thin the canopy. "Timing is paramount," Hobbs says. "So there is no substitute for walking the vine- yard frequently." For its part, the vineyard team prunes, cultivates, fertilizes, applies insecticides and irrigates the vines. "In these areas, I weigh in if I see something outside the norm," Hobbs says. "By now, the field crew knows what Paul is looking for," Chris Hyde says. "We farm the blocks according to his wishes." Hobbs decides when the grapes are ready to har- vest, but only after a discussion with the vineyard team. "At first, Larry accused me of letting the fruit hang so long that I was going to kill the vineyard," Chris Hyde says. "But with the sun low in the sky during the first three weeks of October, we are able to burn off the pyr- azines." And if the temperature remains cool, the grapes can deliver intense fruit flavor, lighter body, brighter acidity and a moderate amount of alcohol. " If you wish to produce Pinot Noir in the Napa Valley, you need to find the coolest climate." —Larry Hyde, Hyde Vineyards owner