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WIN e MAKING ecology of the organism 1. In an aerobic environment, Brettano- myces can utilize proline as a sole source of both carbon and nitrogen. This amino acid is available in high quantities in both wine and beer, and it is not metabolized by Saccharomyces spp. 2. Brettanomyces employs a parasitic, secondary contaminant strategy—rarely taking over. It lacks the genetic capability to synthesize biotin, folic acid and other essential micronutrients that it depends on other organisms to exude during their autolysis. Brett is well controlled to less than 500 cells per mL by other organisms Although presented here as a third leg, the creation of good structure should be addressed quite early in the wine's life, cre- ating the conditions for integrating sub- sequent microbial activity. Wines benefit most from oxygen immediately after com- normally present in wines. Sterilized wines can reach 10,000,000 cells per milliliter. 3. It principally enters wineries from bees and is spread by barrels and bulk wines from other wineries. In wineries, Brett establishes ubiquitous sequestered low populations that are extremely difficult to eradicate. 4. Brettanomyces can ferment cellobiose, a synthetic sugar produced by toasting of new wood. 5. It cannot grow at temperatures below 59o F. pletion of alcoholic fermentation. It is best to delay malolactic fermentation through the use of slightly elevated SO2 (I use 45 ppm) at the crusher and also to warm or cool the new wine to 65o diately commencing treatment. addition F, imme- Since many aspects of Phase I oxygen- ative structuring are counterintuitive, it is best to work with someone skilled in the art.6 Properly administered, oxygenation is homeopathic, increasing rather than de- grading the wine's reductive strength, bi- zarre as that sounds. filtration. However, since these conditions preclude the development necessary for the production of top reds, a strategy of moderate suppression in the cellar can lead to completion in the bottle. The balanced ecological strategy advocated here cannot be implemented halfway. If you're making classic red wines, you're probably already a little bit pregnant, so maybe it's time to embrace the baby and take up responsible parenting. Make up your mind Most problems with Brett are the results of indecision. The organism is easily con- trolled in fresh, unevolved white wines by a combination of sanitation, low tempera- ture, low pH, SO2 maintenance and sterile Clark Smith is winemaker for WineSmith and founder of the wine technology firm Vinova- tion. He lectures widely on an ancient yet in- novative view of American winemaking. ON SENECA WINE TRAIL Digital Edition Now Available To Subscribers WINERY & VINEYARD GREAT BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY! Working Winery, Restaurant, Vineyard. Tasting room, boutique, restaurant, banquet room, party terrace with a view of Seneca Lake. 18A Fully productive grapes. 17A suitable for more planting. Good retail & wholesale distribution. Licensed Real Estate Broker/Owner Office: 315-568-9404 Cell: 315-246-3997 Call for our latest inventory! Mel Russo $995,000 website: www.senecayuga.com e-mail: senecayuga@aol.com Weed Badger® Read it, Search it, Share it, Download it! Call or visit our subscribe page to opt-in today. (866) 453-9701 • winesandvines.com The perfect Weed Badger attachment for managing cover crops or no till operations. Safe for young vines, with on-the-go tilt to adjust to the terrain. Call factory-direct now and ask about our Mower Specials! 97 Fall Street, PO Box 386 Seneca Falls, NY 13148 3875 Mower Perfect for organic or sustainable growers! 3875 Mower 800-437-3392 • www.weedbadger.com Wines & Vines JUne 2011 79