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WINEMAKING for testing. The cooperage spends about $60,000 per year just for lab analysis, and the testing adds another layer of logistical planning. It's not enough that the mate- rials, staff and equipment are in place; everything needs to be clean. Remy said contamination can be a matter of nanograms brought in from almost any- where, and the possibilities start to pile up from employees bringing in contaminants on their clothes or crop dusters dropping pesticides from the air. "You need to be care- ful about what you're doing," Remy said. Gary Chappell is the international manager for Bouchard Cooperages, which includes tonnelleries Billon, Cadus, Damy Vicard and the Canadell line of barrel alternatives. He said all of the cooperages regularly test for haloanisoles throughout the production process as part of their quality-control procedures. "This in- cludes regular testing of wood lots when received, testing of staves in the stave yard during the seasoning process, atmospheric testing of the entire facilities and regular testing of all water used in each facility," he said in an email. "Haloanisole testing on finished barrels and containers is avail- able at an additional cost." The testing and analysis is based on the French cooper federation's guide to good production processes. This guide outlines establishing a HACCP plan, testing and sampling regimen as well as maximum levels of TCA and other contaminants. The federation specifies in its guide that it is just making recommendations; each company is left to set its own standards. Physical inspections Blisters are one of the top complaints about barrel quality. During toasting, moisture trapped inside staves can explode, causing cracks and blisters. If the blisters are undetected and the barrels are filled with wine, the blisters can collect wine and lees and pose a contamination risk. "Every single barrel is inspected, and we know that for the American market blisters are unacceptable," Hansen said. He noted that during a tour of Burgundy he ran into a few winemakers who said if their strong or medium toasted barrels did not have blisters they doubted wheth- er the barrel had been properly toasted. Hansen didn't question it but said, "(I)kind of scratched my head at that." Coopers inspect barrels at each stage of the production process. "If they think there's something wrong with a barrel they can pull 2 BARREL STEAMING MACHINE AUTOMATED STEAMING! a barrel off at anytime," Hansen said. Before being wrapped for shipping, an employee will drop a light into each bar- rel for a final inspection before it is sent out to clients. If a winemaker is unsatis- fied with a barrel, Hansen said the coo- perage would send someone to inspect it. Remy also conceded that blisters can form through the toasting process, and if they're present when a barrel is filled they can lead to bacterial problems. "We need to avoid that from the beginning," he said. Canton employs a "slow and deep" toasting that's not too hot to avoid the quick release of steam from staves. After toasting he said barrels pass through inspection stations equipped with lights to give workers a clear view inside the barrel. "It's very simple, but it's improving the system," he said. "Plus, when the barrel is made, one more inspector with a controller light passes it into the bung hole." If workers detect a problem, Remy said they could either shave the blister out or replace the stave. It is complex decision to pick barrels that are a good match for a wine. But beyond the sensory qualities of a barrel, winemak- ers also have to ensure those barrels won't compromise the integrity of their wine. Helping you get 1-Step closer to great wine. from Lallemand - an easy and affordable solution for your toughest malolactic fermentations. When conditions are challenging, try 1-Step ML cultures • Adapted to high alcohol (up to 15.5%) • Enhances complexity and mouthfeel 2 & 4 Barrel Washing • 2 & 4 Barrel Steaming Barrel Processing Lines • 1/2 Ton Bin Washing Systems 35 lb. Picking Lug Washers • Custom Cellar Equipment need to be acclimatized. Please contact us for more information. • An affordable alternative to direct inoculation cultures *When used during co-inoculation, 1-Step cultures do not 1650 Almar Parkway, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 P. 707-573-3150 F. 707-573-3140 www.tombeard.com E. jmendoza@tombeard.com 40 WINES & VINES DECEMBER 2012 NEW!