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WINEMAKING that higher alcohol lots lost freshness and developed raisiny aro- mas faster. The lower dielectric constant5 of high-alcohol solutions destabilizes tannin complexes, leading to graininess, precipitation and accelerated browning. At first it seems reasonable to say, "What the heck? Let the lov- ers of minerality and terroir drink French and continue to ignore the New World." But the emergence of California's niche as the source of Big Wines has a downside. We are not really making Le Montrachet. The greatest French wines combine both styles: incredibly broad and deep. Californians are impressed by those who bulk up—we even elected one governor. But it didn't hurt Schwarzenegger's popular- ity when he turned up as an articulate spokesman for his odd but intriguing point of view. We can make big wines that have some- thing to say; I just hope consumers won't write California wines off before we get around to it. Naming the devil So there you have it. The real root cause is the consumer appetite we seek to serve. Just like Colombian coke dealers, we make high- alcohol wines because our customers have communicated with cash that's what they want. Quoth Walt Kelly, "We have met the enemy, and he is us." But hold on. Is this story really the calamity it's portrayed as? Most writers on this subject indict these changes in California wine as some kind of scandal. Wine is the second-sexiest of busi- nesses, and exposés sell lots of magazines. But rising alcohols are almost entirely good news. California is crowding the shelves with more and better wine than ever before. The Grey Rieslings and cheap Chablis of the '70s simply weren't as good as today's offerings. We've gained incalculable knowledge since then about what to make and how to make it, finding our best niche in a global marketplace. Dialing in proper maturity has been a key field of inquiry. Are we there yet? Not on your life. But you can bet that every producer will keep dialing until his viable niche gets formulated. Initially, I quite liked the first few oaky butter-bombs I tasted de- cades ago, but after a while I just got bored, and I'm confident that American consumers will follow suit as their palates mature. It is possible to make wines that offer both richness and finesse, with profundity as well as the power to lift you off your feet. Cali- fornia winemakers have recently begun to get smarter at romanc- ing their tannins while protecting depth and integrity. A month on the vine doesn't substitute for a decade in the cave—what did you think? This is where the French have us. But we can make those wines too, and some of us will, because ulti- mately they will offer the best expression of our terroir. Clark Smith is winemaker for WineSmith and founder of the wine technology firm Vinovation. He lectures widely on an ancient yet innova- tive view of American winemaking. References 1. napavintners.com/about/ab_5_climate.aspx 2. sarep.ucdavis.edu/production/viticulture/williams.htm 3. "Creating Conditions For Graceful Aging," Wines & Vines, February 2010. 4. "Building Structure: The Postmodern Tool Kit," Wines & Vines, March 2010. 5. The driving force holding the phenolic colloids that comprise red wine struc- ture together: downloads.olisystems.com/ResourceCD/MixedSolventElectrolytes/ Dielectric.pdf ScottLabs_May08 4/2/08 9:53 PM Page 1 Wines & Vines DeCeMBeR 2011 51