Wines & Vines

December 2014 Unified Sessions Preview Issue

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W i n e s & V i n e s D e C e M B e R 2 0 1 4 55 Photo finish Our first grapes from the earliest harvest in memory were picked Aug. 18. A week prior to that, we still hadn't finished the glycol piping for the tanks, nor had we even turned on the chiller or tested the new press. Our electricity and hot water began working a week before the first pick, although Internet proved to be a problem. Comcast told us it would take 90 to 120 days for an Internet connection in Berkeley! That wasn't acceptable, given that we have a business to run. So we found an independent provider who gave us Internet in one day—and at a better price, too. Nonetheless, the winery was still a con- struction zone at first crush. We were fin- ishing floors, painting walls in the offices and even painting six parking spaces out- side the building (a city requirement). We also had to pour more concrete for a new sidewalk required by the city's zoning laws. By Sept. 3, we had Pinot Noir in one tank and Sauvignon Blanc in another tank. The cellar crew was working on the wine, while right above them the con- struction crew was putting the final touches on ceiling insulation. We finally got the front door installed, the exterior walls painted and the confer- ence/tasting room almost finished in time for an opening party Nov. 2. Alas, the winery sign wasn't quite ready by then, but at least we were able to make wine this harvest, and that is something we can be thankful for. (If we were in Napa, we'd probably still be waiting to get our winery permit approved.) Bottom line As any new winery project unfolds, there are bound to be surprises. Before getting started, make a detailed budget and try to stick to it. It's the only way to anticipate or control costs. Give yourself a year, if you can, to plan and build. Remember to create a timeline with your architect and contractor, who will need to understand that ripening grapes do not wait for any- one. And just for good measure, assume harvest will be early! Jeff Morgan is a partner in Covenant Wines, winemaker, winemaking consul- tant, writer and former professional saxo- phone player. Moving the winemaking operation to Berke- ley involved the transfer of 400 wine barrels. G R A P E G R O W I N G W I N E M A K I N G

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