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4 W i n e s & V i n e s D e C e M B e R 2 0 1 4 All print subscribers now get digital access to Wines & Vines. You can: Digital Edition • DOWNLOAD pages or full issues • BROWSE current and archived issues • WATCH videos Questions? Contact customer service at (866) 453-9701 or custserv@winesandvines.com Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. PDT. • ACCESS via desktop, tablet or mobile device • SEARCH by keyword or table of contents • NAVIGATE by topic or page thumbnail To access, scan this mobile barcode or visit winesandvines.com/digitaledition. Use your Wines & Vines login to sign in. In This Issue Jeff Morgan S etting up shop for Covenant Wines in Berkeley, Calif., this year, Jeff Morgan learned that budgeting 25% more than you plan to spend is a good rule of thumb for build- ing an urban winery. Morgan shares this lesson and more starting on page 48. Mike Veseth T he urge to identify your region with its best-selling varietal can backfire, according to economist Mike Veseth. In his article for Practi- cal Winery & Vineyard (see page 62), Veseth says the roller coaster of grape popularity can sink an entire area. Denise Gardner E xcess nitrogen can cause fermentations to proceed quickly and lead to spoilage. In Wine East (see page 76), Penn State enology extension associate Denise Gardner offers advice for keeping yeast assimilable nitro- gen (YAN) in check. December Cover G raphic artist Barbara Summer created the cover illustration in- spired by our inaugural best-of-year roundup based on data and metrics compiled by the staff of Wines & Vines. A Member of Wine Communications Group Inc. A Member of Wine Communications Group Inc. EDITORIAL Editor Jim Gordon Managing Editor Kate Lavin Associate Editor Andrew Adams Senior Correspondent Paul Franson Contributing Editor Jane Firstenfeld Northwest Correspondent Peter Mitham Columnists Cliff Ohmart, Glenn T. McGourty Practical Winery & Vineyard Editor: Don Neel Associate Publisher: Tina Vierra Wine East Editor: Linda Jones McKee; Writers: Richard Carey, Hudson Cattell Contributing Writers Laurie Daniel, Richard Smart, Fritz Westover, Chris Stamp, Andrew Reynolds, Craig Root DATAbASE DEVELOPMENT & INfORMATION TEChNOLOGy Vice President—Data Management Lynne Skinner Project Manager Liesl Stevenson Database & Web Development James Rust Peter Scarborough DESIGN & PRODuCTION Bridget Williams Barbara Summer Subscription Rates U.S., $38.00; Canada/Mexico, $48.00 All other countries, $85.00 (for airmail add $85.00) Reproduction in whole or part without permis- sion is prohibited. Wines & Vines does not assume responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. Contributors are responsible for the proper release of proprietary and/or classified information. Wines & Vines is distributed through an audited circulation. Postmaster Send address changes to: Wines & Vines PO Box 1649 Boulder, CO 80306-1649 Customer Service (866) 453-9704 subs@winesandvines.com winesandvines.com Publishing Information Volume 95, Number 12 Wines & Vines, ISSN 043-583X, a member of Wine Communications Group, Sonoma, Calif., is published monthly. Periodicals postage paid at San Rafael and at additional mailing offices. ADVERTISING West: Jacques Brix Vice President & Director of Sales (707) 473-0244 jbrix@winesandvines.com West: Lydia Hall (415) 453-9700, ext. 103 lydia@winesandvines.com Midwest: Hooper Jones (847) 486-1021 hooperhja@aol.com Northeast: Marsha Tabb (215) 794-3442 marshatabb@comcast.net East: Laura Lemos (973) 822-9274 laura@boja.com International: Dave Bayard (973) 822-9275 dave@bayard.com Advertising Manager Christina Ballinger PubLIShING President & Publisher Chet Klingensmith Publishing Assistant Maria Brunn Chairman Hugh Tietjen Publishing Consultant Ken Koppel