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50 W i n e s & V i n e s J U n e 2 0 1 4 O ne of the most enigmatic problems wineries face when trying to break into new mar- kets is how to explain their wines to customers who might not know anything about wine—let alone where it was pro- duced and the particular conditions under which the grapes were grown. The problem is compounded when a different language and cultural frame- work are at play. This is what makes efforts to sell wine into Asia—the region on which many wineries have pinned their export hopes— a fascinating study in translating wine not only into a new language but also a cul- ture where grape wines are a relatively new product. While the markets are home to savvy, sophisticated consumers, intro- ducing grape wines presents a unique set of challenges. Presentations at and around the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair this past November told members of the trade that talking about wine in terms familiar to consumers in Europe and North America—where the cuisine and cultural associations of wine differ signifi- cantly from those in Asia—wouldn't cut it. Yet at booths and tastings around the fair, it was common to hear the wines pre- sented in the context of Western cuisine and dining practices, rather than the foods and flavors of Asia. How then do Chinese consumers view wine? Since a traditional Chinese meal brings together a range of flavors, wine doesn't necessarily pair with individual courses. Often, it is effectively one of many courses brought to the table. "The taste is not the top, key point," explained Li Demei, vice-general secretary of the Chinese Wine Association and an associate professor of wine tasting and enology at the Beijing Agriculture College. Pairing "is not possible. You just leave them drinking; it doesn't matter what they match with. If they are happy, they continue, and that's enough." The result is that wines are frequently chosen on the basis of external factors: price, place of origin, packaging, style, brand, ranking. Indeed, research at the Ehrenberg-Bass Institute for Marketing Science at the University of South Austra- lia indicates that the quintessential bottle of wine in China is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux at a price below RMB 250 (approximately $41.33). The opportunity for wineries lies in deepening the understanding of wine among consumers who are curious. Chi- na's emerging middle-class wine drinkers will often gather to taste wines, creating a communal setting and the chance for word-of-mouth recommendations among people with similar values, interests and understanding. It also creates a non-confrontational environment in which no one has to dis- close their ignorance and potentially lose "face," or public standing, an important element in Chinese culture. Instead, every- one can contribute to the discussion. "We always talk about the Chinese con- sumer liking sweeter wines. That's not true," Li explained. "The Chinese are too shy to talk about their feelings about wine. When you talk about the tannin, the structure, the body, the length, the mouth-feeling, the consumer can't talk about that. But when they taste the wine Tantalizing Opportunities Success in the Asian market depends on knowing the local palate By Peter Mitham Highlights • Many North American wineries want to sell wine in Asia, particularly China. • It is a mistake to assume that Asian consumers want to experience wine the same way you do. • Find the right terms to make your wine understood. Women sample a sparkling rosé at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair in 2013. S A L E S & M A R K E T I N G