Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/172581
WINEMAKING Pinot Noir in Freestone/Occidental near Bodega Bay, where our vineyards are, may be different than picking decisions in other appellations. Assuming that the viticultural work was done, and the season provided desirable weather (no major heat spikes in between fog coverage), then I'm interested in picking low—22º to 23.5º Brix—if the flavors are complex and the acidity is not too aggressive. I typically like to pick on the cusp of strawberry to cherry fruit aromas, while the Brix, pH and TA are still in balance. Also, I have found that both the Brix and fruit expression can continue to elevate during cold soak, so if I am working with an outstanding vineyard I can pick a little before the perceived ripeness has been reached. On a practical note, the vineyard manager/owner and I have to be in great communication three to four weeks before harvest. The ability to pick when you want to pick—at the exact day, time and fruit temperature—can only be achieved with excellent communication. I usually give the vineyard manager seven to 10 days' notice to make sure that the picking crew, equipment and transportation are all arranged. Having established a rough picking date, I will fine-tune the time as I get closer. By three days before, I have established an exact time. W&V: Do you ever add water or acid in your winemaking? Cobb: Adding water isn't necessary due to my picking decisions. Picking between 22º and 23.5º Brix achieves a natural alcohol level of 12.5% to 14%. Besides, even if you pick at 29º Brix, and water back to 24º, it still tastes like 29º. Also, because of the quality and maturity of the vineyards I work with, I very rarely use organic tartaric acids. On the rare occasions when I do, it is not to increase acidity or tartness; it is to precipitate out the excessive potassium from the juice. In my 25 years of winemaking, there have been a few years with excessive heat events, where one or two lots needed to be adjusted, but not due to excessive ripeness or late picking. It was more due to shrivel of dehydration in a hot growing season. A resident of the Santa Cruz Mountains, Laurie Daniel has been a journalist for more than 25 years. She has been writing about wine for publications for nearly 15 years and has been a Wines & Vines contributor since 2006. W&V: How do your winemaking practices help you achieve the Cobb style? Cobb: As I've mentioned, for me, picking decisions are most important, assuming that the vineyard management and upkeep are of highest quality. This said, there are many things that can create a larger impact. For some winemakers, their influence on the final wine (beyond picking decisions) is more like 50%60%. This influence can be seen in the new oak, enzymes for extraction, acids and nutrients for yeast in the fermentations. That's not my approach. I have found that the work I've done in vineyard, and setting the exact day of harvest, allows me to do very little manipulation in the winery. I use approximately 30% new oak, versus a more common 50% for high-end Pinots. I have also found that aging my wines from 15 to 22 months in 30% new oak—the period of élevage—achieves a beautiful elegance, where the integration of oak and fruit seems to be the ideal. Over the years, I've experimented with longer aging and less new oak. WIN ES & V I N ES O CTO B E R 2 0 1 3 57