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June 2018 WINES&VINES 17 _Publicite_Vineyard-F.indd 1 17-12-15 9:59 AM WINE INDUSTRY NEWS S an Francisco, Calif.—"The gift of the wine industry to the marketplace is the introduction to biodynamics," said Elizabeth Candelaria, president of Demeter USA. According to Candelaria and the Demeter Association, in 2006, most Demeter members consisted of small family — non-vineyard — farms, distributing produce regionally. But win- ery membership has grown extensively: in 2017 the association recorded a total of 603 Demeter wineries in 19 different countries, producing biodynamic wines from 32,514 certified acres. Wineries choosing to farm and produce wines biodynamically come in all sizes, some remain small family farms, while others sell wines in the consumer marketplace. Yet it seems that within the industry, as well as in the larger marketplace, there remains precon- ceived notions and stereotypes about what biodynamic means and debates about the qual- ity of the wines produced. On May 7, Demeter USA gathered together viticulturists, winemakers, growers and scien- tists from across the globe to educate and cel- ebrate what biodynamics really mean — in the vineyard, in the bottle, on the shelf and in the glass. "The most important part of the vineyard comes from the unseen," said Jean-Charles Boisset, vintner and proprietor of Boisset Col- lection, which includes vineyards and winer- ies in Burgundy, Napa and the Russian River Valley. "The quality of a wine comes from the invisible part of mother nature; the feeding mechanism of the plant" he said, "Terroir, comes from underneath." Biodynamic farming prohibits chemical fer- tilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides; it integrates animal life, animal feeds, peren- nial plants, flowers, trees, and composting to feed the soil; and farms are required to set- aside and maintain at least 10% total acreage for biodiversity, which can include wetlands, grasslands, and forests. Bob Lindquist, founder and winemaker of Qupé in Santa Maria, Calif., straddles both sides of the debate, crafting conventional wines from Bien Nacido vineyards, and biodynamic wines from vineyards in the Edna Valley. His biodynamic wines are produced in small lots in limited releases, while his conventional wines line the shelves of the consumer marketplace. Though he's lobbied the owners of Bien Nacido to transition to biodynamics, they're hesitant. "It's a complex process," said Lindquist, referring to both the certification process and the investments required for the transition, namely the infrastructure: spray rigs, tractors, stirring machines that all meet the Demeter specifications. When asked which wines he prefers, he points to his biodynamic wines. "Better grapes," he said. "Better for the environment. … Being a winemaker is a constant quest to get the best out of the land. Biodynamic farming is farming with observation and gives you better tools to be a better winemaker and make better wines." Lindquist said he'd like to increase his bio- dynamic wine production from Edna Valley and get those wines into the larger, consumer mar- ketplace. "I'm doing this (biodynamic winemak- ing) because it means something to us but would love recognition in the marketplace." To those in the industry considering biody- namics, he encourages getting certified. "Com- panies like Whole Foods recognize that extra step and appreciate the Demeter logo. And when a company like that pays attention, it gets the consumer's attention." — Stacy Briscoe Putting Their Faith in Biodynamic Grapes