Wines & Vines

September 2016 Finance Issue

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September 2016 WINES&VINES 29 VIEWPOINT of disease pressure. In short, even traditional cool-climate winemaking regions need to have a big box of vineyard-management tools to adapt to less predictable weather. Cool-climate winemakers arguably need an even broader toolbox. As Paul Henschke of the Australian Wine Research Institute noted, cool-climate musts can stress yeasts with low pH, high acidity, free SO 2 and re- sidual agrochemicals, requiring careful moni- t o r i n g a n d s t r a i n c h o i c e f o r o p t i m a l fermentation. Cool climates can also result in high malic acid, requiring careful selection of robust lactic acid bacteria strains for suc- cessful malolactic fermentation (MLF). Hugo Campbell from the University of Bordeaux reported that spontaneous MLF in white and red wines are dominated by different strains of Oenococcus oeni, suggesting that climate, enological practices—or both—may be prompting terroir-related evolution of lactic acid bacteria, which impacts wine aroma, flavor and acid make-up. Managing the inevitable variability in cool- climate wine styles is not just the work of the winemaker, however. From a business stand- point, product variability generally has adverse effects, as business planning and financing rests on predictability. Australian wine industry strategist Peter Hayes stressed that though seasonal conditions could be a reason for varia- tion, they shouldn't be used as an excuse for variable quality; consequently, viticultural per- formance should be the biggest concern of all cool-climate wine producers. Regional variability (or the lack thereof) can be a mixed blessing for marketing strate- gists, as well. Using New Zealand's Central Otago as a case study, master of wine Steve Charters illustrated the economic benefits that can result from regional branding if all producers are willing to put the story of a mutually agreeable, iconic product above that of individual winery brands or wines. In contrast, former Harpers UK wine business columnist Mike Paul suggested that regional branding can handicap individual producers if the regional product (like "Prosecco") is known as a monolith with little variation in quality or characteristics. Ideally, he said, a wine region has a strong regional identity and a diverse range of strong individual pro- ducers who agree broadly with a long-term regional plan. In their first "serious" academic wine meeting, the UK industry showed an impres- sive program balancing technical and applied presentations, guided and informal tastings of the UK's sparkling and still wines, and social events at local must-see venues. More than 500 attendees were drawn largely from the UK, but they also included solid contin- gents from across the world, including rep- resentatives from Sweden, Chile, Denmark, Japan and (the furthest) Patagonia. To close the event, wine writer Jamie Goode produced an executive summary of the ninth ICCWS with this pearl of wisdom: "You have to ask the right questions of the wine, and then you have to listen to the wine and let the wine speak." The next set of wine ques- tions will have to wait until the 10th ICCWS, to be held in 2020 in Ontario, Canada. Until then, information about the Brighton event can be found at iccws2016.com. Anna Katharine Mansfield is associate professor of enology at Cornell University in Ithaca, N.Y. A R C H I T E C T U R E D E S I G N P L A N N I N G M A N A G E M E N T 7 0 7 . 9 3 5 . 7 9 4 4 www.strataap.com 1_6 Ad_2015.indd 1 11/5/2015 10:54:11 AM TTB LABEL APPROVALS Low per-label costs Gov't. Liaison Negotiations or Footwork Reasonable Hourly Rates TRADEMARK SEARCHES As Low as $185 Your trade names or designs are searched at the U.S. Patent Office to help establish valuable ownership or avoid costly legal liability. Over 100 years' total staff experience handling every government liaison need for industry. Phone or write for details. 200 N. Glebe Rd., Suite 321 Arlington, Virginia 22203 Phone: (703) 524-8200 Fax: 525-8451 TOLL-FREE 1-800-642-6564 Major Credit Cards Accepted www.trademarkinfo.com Since 1957 GovtLiaison_Dir08 11/29/07 2:00 PM Pag Toll-Free: 877-552-4828 909-464-1373 • Fax: 909-464-1603 For your nearest dealer, contact: Quick and economical, this long-lasting dripline holder can be installed in seconds. The built-in saddle prevents water flow restriction. Available in 1/2" and 7/8" sizes. Patent No. 4,615,140 DRIPLOK™ WinVineDripLok AD.qxp_Layout 1 12/1/14 2:52 PM If climate change is creating new regions, however, it's also creating significant challenges in existing regions. JULIA CLAXTON

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