Wines & Vines

January 2016 Unified Symposium Issue

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154 WINES&VINES January 2016 GRAPEGROWING PRACTICAL WINERY & VINEYARD I n May, the ninth International Cool Climate Wine Symposium kicks off in the United Kingdom town of Brighton. More than 40 eminent speakers from around the world will share the latest research and innovations for cool- climate viticulture and winemaking. In advance of ICCWS 2016, we spoke to three keynote speakers to gain insight about the content they will share. Professor Cornelis van Leeu- wen of Bordeaux Sciences Agro is a renowned specialist on climate's effect on the expression of terroir, particularly relating to the aro- matic potential of grapes in wine. He will make his presentation, "Managing Climate-Based Vari- ability," on May 26, the first day of the symposium. "The climate is currently changing, resulting in higher tem- peratures and increased water deficits," Van Leeuwen says. "These changes do not always have a negative impact on wine quality, but they almost always change the style of wine pro- duced. Adapting to a changing climate implies using modified plant material and management techniques." Van Leeuwen will examine the effects of the major climatic viticultural resources: namely temperature, water, light and carbon dioxide. Temperature is a major factor in wine typicity, and temperature variability among and within winegrowing regions is partly responsible for diversity in wine styles. Temperature variability at the regional and vineyard scale can be managed by the choice of grapevine variety, Van Leeuwen says. Ideally, grape ripening should happen at the end of the growing season, avoiding both too-warm and too-cool conditions. At the micro-scale, tem- perature can be controlled though canopy management and trunk height. "Light is another very important resource that provides the energy for photosynthesis and stimulates the synthesis of phenolic com- pounds," Van Leeuwen says. "Light intercep- t i o n b y t h e l e a v e s a n d g r a p e s c a n b e manipulated through vine density and canopy management. "Carbon dioxide is very uniformly distrib- uted over the globe, although its rate is steadily increasing due to human activities," he says. Carbon dioxide enters the leaves through the stomata, and because stomatal closure is con- trolled by water, the amount of gas that vines obtain from the atmosphere is very much re- lated to vine water status. Vine water status depends on soil type (soil water-holding capacity) and climate (rainfall and potential evapotranspiration) parameters, and it has major implications on yield, quality and wine style. Water status can be managed through the choice of plant material (grape- vine variety and rootstock), canopy manage- ment (leaf area per hectare), soil selection (with emphasis on soil water-holding capacity) and irrigation. Wine style in relation to climate can also be managed through winemaking techniques—a topic that will be explored by Dr. Monika Christmann, head of the Institute for Oenology at Geisenheim Uni- versity in Germany and president of the OIV (International Organ- isation of Vine and Wine). Christ- mann will share some of the latest findings May 27 during "Optimiz- ing Cool-Climate Wine Styles," the first plenary session. Christmann argues that wine production is facing various chal- lenges around the globe, relating to specific climatic and legal situ- ations in different wine-producing areas. Traditional viticultural and enological practices in cool-climate areas are often unable to deal with the impact of these situations and therefore need to be adjusted. The development and imple- mentation of new techniques in the wine industry are very important to ad- dress problems such as high levels of Botrytis, insufficient nutrient supply in must, low levels of acidity, high concentration of sugar, sunburn and off-flavors caused by insects, fungi or environmental impact. While investigating new growing and winemaking techniques, consumer protection and consumer expectation cannot be ne- glected. Christmann states, "Due to increas- ing global competition, only products that fit the 'taste' of consumers will survive in the market. "At the same time, consumers are more and more aware of health concerns and therefore are very conscious about any kind of residues in products they will eat and drink. This will automatically lead to more physical (as op- A Taste of What's to Come Key speakers plan presentations for the International Cool Climate Wine Symposium in the United Kingdom By Bryony White International Cool Climate Wine Symposium patrons Julia Trustram-Eve and Bruce Tindale from High Clandon Cuvée attend the Patrons Circle Drinks event.

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