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December 2015 WINES&VINES 69 GRAPEGROWING restrictions for this wording other than the industry-wide standard of 350 parts per million (ppm). The "Ingredients" standard is the most in- expensive and flexible way for wineries to as- sure consumers that the grapes were organically grown. It also saves money on certification fees, since only the vineyards—not the win- ery—need be certified. Made With Organic Grapes/ Organic Wine Winery certification is slightly more expen- sive, but it enables a producer to label the front of its bottles with the word "organic," choosing from one of two standards: "Made with Or- ganic Grapes" or "Organic Wine." To qualify under these standards, vintners must certify both vineyard and winery. These are consid- ered "certified wines." Each type of certified wine has different restrictions regarding the use of sulfites. The "Made with Organic Grapes" standard limits sulfite use to no more than 100 ppm. "Organic Wine" requires that no sulfites be added. Both standards allow the use of organic yeasts and organic additives. Certified wines may display the certifying group's logo. "Organic Wine" is the only stan- dard that can display the "USDA Organic" label. Made With Biodynamic Grapes/ Biodynamic Wine Biodynamic certification is overseen by the nonprofit group Demeter-USA and is protected under trademark law. Demeter USA owns the word "Biodynamic" and limits its use on wine labels and marketing materials to those whom it certifies. The Biodynamic farming and processing standards meet all USDA NOP organic stan- dards and also apply additional requirements to those standards. Most winery owners do not know what those standards actually include. The focus is on sourcing as many materials as possible from the vineyard or winery site and leveraging the local ecosystem, rather than importing organic inputs from afar. While Rudolf Steiner's influ- ence is felt, many who are not that into Steiner's philosophy are certified. The standards suggest timing vineyard and winery events according to the Biodynamic calendar, for instance, but there is no requirement to do so. Other aspects of Biodynamics—including the use of herbal preparations—are requirements. For Biodynamic producers, the standards for certified wines are similar to organic, but with some significant differences. Producers with certified vineyards and wineries may choose from two standards: "Made with Bio- dynamic Grapes" or "Biodynamic Wine." Both of these standards limit the addition of sulfites to 100 ppm. Wines made according to the "Made with Biodynamic Grapes" standard may use organic yeasts and a number of organic additives. Wines in the "Biodynamic Wine" standard may use only native yeasts, up to 100 ppm of sulfites and no other additives. Both of these certified wines may display the Demeter USA logo. For Heuck, Brooks' decision to certify and label its wines was simple. "To me, why would you be farming organically or Biodynamically and not put it on the label?" Certifiers In addition to choosing which wine standard to use, producers can also select which certifier they want to work with. All certifiers are charged with enforcing federal USDA National Organic Program standards, but they vary in other ways. Some are nonprofits, while others advocate for organic farmers. Some are county and state governmental agencies. In California, the largest certifier is CCOF. Producers who certify through CCOF range from organic giant Bonterra, with 912 estate acres in Mendocino County, down to tiny Emtu in Sonoma County with just 3 acres. CCOF is a nonprofit organization under the 501(c)(5) IRS category rather than the 501(c) (3) charitable category. The difference is that CCOF can't give tax exemptions to donors but, in exchange, it can lobby the government on behalf of organic farmers. "CCOF is the largest and oldest certifier in the country," says Jane Wade, applicant sup- port specialist at CCOF. "We are both a certifier and a trade association, so we can lobby and advocate and promote organic practices." Certifiers also vary by the level of farming support or consultation they offer. When grow- ers or winemakers have questions, some agen- cies have very slow response times, while others provide speedy service. In addition to CCOF, other certifiers include Organic Certifiers Inc., based in southern Cali- fornia, which certifies Tablas Creek and Ridge Vineyards, among others, and the nonprofit Oregon Tilth, used primarily by Oregon group producers. Demeter USA, which certifies Biodynamic producers, also offers organic certification under its Stellar Certification Services. "Pro- ducers can certify their vineyards or wines under Stellar," said Demeter USA director Jim Fullmer. "If they are Biodynamic, they can cer- tify both organic and Biodynamic under both Stellar and Demeter and use either or both on their bottle labels." Demeter charges a single fee that covers both certifications. Government agencies can also be certifiers. In Monterey County, Morgan Winery and Bros- seau Vineyards each use the county-run Mon- terey County Certified Organics. In Oregon, the state offers certification through the Ore- gon Department of Agriculture, which certifies Sokol Blosser and Temperance Hill Vineyard. In Washington state, the Washington State Department of Agriculture certifies most vine- yards and wineries. "They do a great job," says Pacific Rim winemaker and general manager Nicolas Quillé. "They were one of the first in the nation. They're very responsive and easy to talk to. The audits go pretty smoothly." Some organic growers and winemakers value the community a certifier has to offer. CCOF has local chapters. The newly reinvigorated North Coast chapter is very active. "CCOF gives you networking, connects you to a community—this community right here," says John Williams of Frog's Leap in Napa Valley, Calif. "This is an or- ganization that has resources and materials." LABELING RULES RELATED TO CERTIFICATION Wine Types Labeling Sulfites Additives Facility Certified Vineyards (Only) Ingredients: Organic Grapes Back only Limited to 350 ppm No restriction No restriction Certified Wines – Organic Made With Organic Grapes Front or back Limited to 100 ppm Organic only Organic winery only Organic Wine Front or back No added sulfites Organic only Organic winery only Certified Wines – Biodynamic Made With Biodynamic Grapes Front or back Limited to 100 ppm Organic only Biodynamic winery only Biodynamic Wine Front or back Limited to 100 ppm No additives allowed (other than sulfites) Biodynamic winery only Note: There is no standard for "Ingredients: Biodynamic Grapes."