Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/60007
CO VER S T OR Y "Every single time we've taken a lot and peeled off two, three barrels and done barrel fermentations, the client tries it, and they look at you and say, 'Why didn't you do this for everything?' Then you tell them how much it costs, and they go, 'Whoa, whoa.'" —Ehren Jordan, winemaker, Failla Wines French firm OxOline produces racks, seen here at Caldwell Winery, that are equipped with rollers to allow for spinning barrels dur- ing fermentation. the final blends. "This vineyard is in an amazing climate that can make excellent wine in any vintage," he said. Ehren Jordan, winemaker at Failla Wines in St. Helena, Calif., said that during the past harvest he did 50 to 60 barrel fermentations. He said the method is best for Bordeaux varieties and sometimes Syrah. One of the benefits of using the method is that it allows the winemaker the option of lengthening the maceration period. The tight head space can easily be gassed with a little dry ice, and it's up to the winemaker to decide how long to leave it. Jordan, who focuses on Pinot Noir for his Failla label, doesn't employ barrel fermentation for much of his own wine, but he does quite a bit for custom crush clients. He said it's easy for clients to taste the difference of barrel fermentation, but some balk at the expense. Factoring in the cooperage costs to remove barrel heads and the extra labor, Jordan estimated that barrel fermentation could cost hundreds of extra dollars per barrel. "Every single time we've taken a lot and peeled off two, three barrels and done barrel ferments, the client tries it and they look at you and say, 'Why didn't you do this for everything?' Then you tell them how much it costs and they go, 'Whoa, whoa,'" he said. "If you make certain kinds of red wines, it's an amazing tool, but they need to sell at a price point that allows for the added costs." ÉLEVÉ EN FRANCE COOPERED IN CALIFORNIA Visit www.tonnellerieo.com to learn about our French oak barrels and schedule a private tour of our new California cooperage. 531 Stone Road, Benicia, CA 94510 | 707.752.6350 office | 707.746.7471 fax | info@tonnellerieo.com 30 Wines & Vines FeBRUARY 2012