Wines & Vines

July 2015 Technology Issue

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78 WINES&VINES July 2015 GRAPEGROWING WINE EAST bers are removed, and new selections are planted with input from the advisory group and industry. As the industry evolves, so does the mix of varieties under evaluation. Chardonnay clones Chardonnay, the most widely grown white wine variety in the world, has perhaps the most diverse selection of clones. Different clones exhibit wide variation in cluster architecture, time of ripening and flavors. The first blocks of Chardonnay planted on Long Island were clones from California such as the "Martini clone" (see "Sampling of Chardonnay Clones") that had large, tight clusters (prone to Botrytis fruit rots) and ripened late, producing less distinctive wines in Long Island's climate. Our trial of 15 Chardonnay clones included the so-called "Dijon clones" introduced in the 1990s—and profoundly changed Chardonnay plantings on Long Island. As a group, these clones were different from their high-acid, later ripening California cousins. They ripened sooner and displayed moderate acids and more nuanced, mineral and nutty flavors. Clones 76 and 96 (see "Sampling of Chardonnay Clones") have been particularly popular. These clones proved to be better adapted to Long Island's cooler climate and made it possible for Long Island wineries to produce more distinctive and unique Chardonnay wines. For a comprehensive list of Chardonnay clones, see the UC Davis National Grape Reg- istry at ngr.ucdavis.edu. Merlot clones Merlot is considered the "signature wine" for Long Island's climate. Our trials have included eight Merlot clones. In contrast to the large clonal differences we saw with Chardonnay, differences in Merlot clones have been more subtle. Merlot clones 1, 3 and 181 have shown consistent production as well as rich, ripe fla- vors and tannins. Those three clones comprise the majority of plantings on Long Island. Mer- lot clone 8 has rich, ripe flavors but more rustic tannins. In addition, poor fruit set is sometimes an issue. Fruit quality has been variable for clones 6, 9 and 314. Strictly based on produc- tion, clone 6 is a workhorse. It requires annual cluster thinning. Newer clones of Merlot would be worthy of further evaluation. Cabernet Sauvignon clones Eight Cabernet Sauvignon clones were planted in the mid-1990s. Clone 6 was removed due to unsustainable yields. Clones 10 and 341 were infected by leafroll virus. In this vineyard, late- ripening Cabernet Sauvignon has been a chal- lenge because the vineyard sits amid hundreds of acres of vegetables. This renders the fruit highly susceptible to wildlife depredation and exacerbates losses due to tropical storms. Con- sequently, Cabernet Sauvignon data has been inconsistent, and for this reason the cultivar is no longer a focus in the research vineyard. Other varieties Since 1995, 46 varieties have been screened. It has been enlightening to see vine growth habit, taste fruit (and sometimes wine) and examine data from uncommon varieties tradi- tionally not found on Long Island. Commercial plantings of Albariño, Barbera, Dornfelder, Lemberger, Malvasia Bianca, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris and Sangiovese have resulted. The newest varieties in the trial are Auxerrois, Petit Manseng, Verdejo, Grüner Veltliner and Zwei- gelt. In recent evaluation of small-lot wines, the first three varieties were praised by growers as "perfumey" and "floral," with peach and honey flavors. The aromatic whites Arneis, Moscato Giallo and Vermentino were planted in 2014. The hardy red wine grape Saperavi is our new addition, planted in 2015. As a direct result of our trials, growers have established commercial plantings of six novel varieties: Dornfelder, Muscat Ottonel, Lem- berger, Malvasia Bianca, Albariño and Barbera, expanding the range of unique varietal wines and blends produced by Long Island Wineries. Interspecific hybrids In the mid-2000s, we planted the first hybrids in a dedicated section of our variety trial. This work started because, over the long run, hy- brids may offer unique characteristics of value 251 Gambee Road, Geneva, NY 14456 Phone: 315-759-2118 Toll free: 888-234-6752 Fax: 315-789-1848 Email: cjennings@vancemetal.com Website: www.vancemetal.com Quality Rugged 12 gauge, Custom & Stock Stainless Tanks Catwalk Systems • Pump Over Carts • Custom Hoppers, Chutes & Bins For more information CCE-Suffolk Grape Program: This website hosts infor- mation about grape production on Long Island, and Alice Wise's program. Evaluation of Wine Grape Cultivars and Clones—2013 report: This report summarizes the most recent data from the Long Island wine grape variety trial. National Grape Registry: This registry, hosted by the University of California, Davis, has a comprehensive list of grape varieties and clones available through nurser- ies and at Foundation Plant Services. "Trying out varieties that were found unsuitable is equally important, because it helped growers avoid making mistakes." —Larry Perrine, Channing Daughter Vineyards

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