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BRUCE ZOECKLEIN Inquiring Winemaker Finding Balance in Viognier T oday's consumers expect Viog- textural balance requires an understanding nier to be well balanced with a of the grape, impact of vineyard managesymphony of integrated aromas ment and how winemaking variables influand flavors. Balance and har- ence the integration of fruit, wood, yeast mony are two descriptors often and bacteria-derived aromas and flavors. used to denote quality, while A significant volume of research has unpleasant coarseness, aftertaste involving advanced our understanding of how bitterness and/or excessive astringency or various viticultural practices such as crop hotness can negatively impact3:29 impor- level,1 crop exposure,2,3 leaf area to crop this PM Page 1 Mori_Nov05.qxt 9/19/05 tant varietal wine. To attain structural and ratio,4 shoot density, training systems5 and terroir6 affect grape and wine components. However, few studies have been directed to Viognier. The paper "Effect of Vertical Shoot-Positioned, Smart-Dyson and Geneva Double-Curtain Training Systems on Viognier Grape and Wine Composition"7 reported that Viognier training impacted grape and wine volatiles and wine aroma, flavor and mouthfeel. SUPPLIERS OF QUALITY With most varieties, grape aroma and VIRUS CERTIFIED flavor development is relatively linear, increasing at a relatively even pace near GRAFTED GRAPEVINES the end of the ripening period. Viognier, however, undergoes an engustment (a rapid respiratory change) late in the Deadline for Custom season that creates the aroma and flavor Grafted Order characteristics associated with the variety including lychee, musk, rose, pear, apricot, For Spring Planting is peach, nectar, ginger and citrus. January of Previous Year Engustment occurs late in the season, often with a relatively high potential alcohol (above 14%), linking aroma and flavor to mouthfeel. Viognier varietal For Further Information character is largely the result of C13& Pricing norisoprenoïds and terpenes. Yeast-derived Please Call or Write aromas are mainly from esters produced as a result of the metabolism of fatty acids 1912 Concession 4 and amino acids. Generally, these are less R.R. #2 Niagara-on-the-Lake stable than grape-derived aromas. The Ontario, Canada LOS 1J0 Phone: 905-468-0822 relatively high alcohol in most Viognier Fax: 905-468-0344 can impact both varietal and fermentation aroma and flavors as well as mouthfeel. 66 W in es & V i ne s F E B R UARY 20 13 Structural and textural components that impact mouthfeel interact in a palate balance relationship depicted in "Palate Structure and Texture Balance Components" on page 67. This somewhat over-simplified association suggests that an increase in the perception on one side of this relationship decreases the perception of components on the other side. The converse is also true. With this in mind, it is easy to understand how perception of structural and texture components interrelate. The sweet elements impact not simply sweet taste but also, in a dry wine, the perception of body or volume. These sensory features are derived mainly from carbohydrates, polysaccharides, mannoproteins, gums and alcohol. The acid elements are the result of grapederived organic acids or acid addition. The phenolics include sensations derived from the skins, seeds and stems, and they may also result from winemaker intrusions such as barrel and enological tannins. Phenolic compounds in Viognier can provide a range of sensory features including what is described as tannin intensity, astringency, bitterness and dry tannins. Integration of structure and texture components is important because perceptions occur in different parts of the palate and, therefore, at different time Highlights • hile researchers have examined the W correlation between viticultural practices and wine properties, few of their studies have included the winegrape Viognier. • n this column Bruce Zoecklein analyzes I how viticulture and winemaking affect the components of wine balance. • n high-quality Viognier, we expect to I experience sweetness, acidity and phenolic elements as a harmonious whole.