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78 WINES&VINES November 2018 WINEMAKING cause the CO2 generated from the second fermentation becomes more dissolved in the wine. We actually wait three years (on the yeast), and we now wait six years on the yeast for our Rosé d'Or." Collecting the sediment Dead yeast cells are collected in the bottle neck prior to removal in a process known as riddling or remuage. Historically, it was performed manually utilizing A-shaped racks, or pupitres, but modern options include mechanized, man- ually operated girasols and automated, com- puter-operated gyropalettes. R. Stuart & Co. hand-riddles the Rosé d'Or twice daily on pupitres for as long as necessary, usually between 10 and 30 days. On occasion, Stuart employs Radiant Sparkling Wine to rid- dle via gyropalette, which takes about four days. Analemma also employs Radiant for riddling, but uses a girasol, while Scharffenberger trans- fers all tirage bottles to riddling cages, where they undergo an automated riddling program that lasts three to five days. Equinox operates a gyropalette on a 26-step, seven-day cycle. Dégorgement and dosage Methods for dégorgement, or disgorgement of dead yeast cells, include either à la volée (by hand) or à la glace (by ice). If the latter, the bottle neck is dipped into an icy brine, freezing the sediment into a slushy plug, then the bottle is turned upright, the temporary cap removed, and pressure inside the bottle ejects the bidule and slushy plug from the bottle neck. R. Stuart "dry" disgorges. "We do not freeze the necks," Stuart said. "We dry disgorge (we hold the bottle upside down and pop the bottle cap off to release the yeast). We quickly get our thumb over the opening to not lose the wine." Final alcohol averages fall between 12% and 12.7%, and final pH from 3.0 to 3.2. Any lost wine is topped off with a dosage, some- times of reserves or brandy. Sealing and cellaring After dosage, the producers seal their wines with a cork or cork conglomerate, wire cage and foil capsule, and label before storing. Aging lengths vary according to house styles, with most wines aged for a minimum of 12 months at temperatures of 58° F to 68° F. Despite farming demands, production com- plexities and lengthy aging requirements, passion for sparkling wine production continues to grow. Some see it as a way to expand existing portfo- lios, others as a technical challenge. But a few said they regard sparkling wine in almost mythic proportions. "It is truly the Holy Grail for me," Stuart said. "It is probably unattainable to reach the goal in my mind, but still, it is a lifelong chal- lenge to make something this difficult." L.M. Archer is a fine wine write specializing in Burgundy, bubbles and emerging wine regions. A member of the American Society of Journalists and Authors, her work ap- pears in numerous domestic and international publications. She holds designations in French Wine, as well as Bour- gogne and Champagne Master Level. Find her on Instagram/ Twitter @lmarcherml and online at www.lmarcher.com. Robert Stuart founded R. Stuart & Co. in McMinnville, Ore. JOHN VALLS Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates Market Intelligence for the Wine Industry · The Gomberg-Fredrikson Report: Put your business in context with wine industry market trends. · WineData Wine Pricing Report: Make competitive price positioning comparisons. · Distributor Market Service: Gain a competitive advantage by analyzing the wholesale market www.gfawine.com • 707.940.3922 • inquiry@gfawine.com We perform extensive market research and data collection to create the wine industry's leading databases and reports. Our reports reflect real-world factors and provide business leaders consistent information on which to base decisions.