Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/1007939
6 WINES&VINES August 2018 TABLE OF CONTENTS ON THE COVER Natural corks are punched out from a piece of cork bark at the Cork Supply production facility near Porto, Portugal in this photo by Jorge Simao. Cork Supply has continued to expand its dry soak analysis program and developed automatic testing machines to further reduce the risk of cork contamination from TCA and other compounds. The upgrades come after the clo- sures market grew more competi- tive in recent decades, and cork suppliers responded for improving their production processes. WINEMAKING 38 Winemaking in the Era of Climate Change How the effects of a changing global climate could lead to a problematic primary fermentation, and the analyzes to ensure an optimum fermentation. By Simone Bellassai 44 Technical Spotlight: Zialena Winery The fourth generation of a Sonoma County family revives a tradition of winemaking with a new winery in Geyserville, Calif. By Stacy Briscoe 72 The Impact of Soil, Slope and Water on Wine Quality A Virginia vintner describes what he's learned about the dynamic relationship between grape variety, site and winemaking. By Jim Law GRAPEGROWING 78 A European Embrace of Hybrid Grapes? Faced with mounting concerns about the use of pesticides and better grape and wine quality, European vintners are giving hybrid grapes another look. By Tim Martinson CONTRIBUTORS Clifford Ohmart reviews what has changed in the world of sustainable vineyard management in the past two de- cades in his Vineyard View column that appears on page 32 this month. Ohmart has been contributing to Wines & Vines regularly for 20 years and this month he explores technical innovations that have helped sustainable farm- ing as well as the change in attitudes of farmers that have helped spread the adoption of sustainable practices. Ohmart, a Ph.D. who is the author of View from the Vine- yard: A Practical Guide to Sustainable Winegrape Growing, also identifies where the industry can still improve. Simone Bellassai, a food and beverage analysis expert who holds a double degree in chemistry and enology from the University of Florence, delves into how climate change could affect what winemakers do in the cellar and laboratory in an article on page 38. Bellassai notes how extreme changes in temperature, drought and other risks associated with climate could affect juice and must, and highlights a few wine analyses that could prove vital in the future for ensuring a successful primary fermentation. After more than 30 years of growing grapes in one loca- tion, the observant vineyard owner has a pretty good idea of what grows best in different blocks of the vineyard. Jim Law has owned Linden Vineyards since 1983, and over the years has replanted many vines to move toward vineyards with balanced vines that produce the best fruit possible. He meets regularly with growers at two other Virginia wineries, Barboursville Vineyards (one of Virginia's oldest wineries) and RdV Vineyards (founded in 2004) to taste each other's wines and discuss the chal- lenges of growing and making wine in their locations. In his article on "Soils, Slope and Water" (see page 72), he looks at the importance of those three characteristics for all three vineyards in producing their premium red wines. 44 78 72