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WINEMAKING which have been shown to subliminally enhance value perception. What is generally referred to as "tradi- tional" winemaking didn't get started until after World War II. Conventional winemak- ing, with its electric pumps, stainless steel, inert gas and sterile filtration, is no more traditional than conventional farming. The natural wine movement coalesced around two sources of consumer dissat- isfaction: frustration with sameness and suspicion of winemaker dishonesty. I see signs that greater openness about produc- tion techniques can reunite winemakers and consumers. Consumers can only make informed choices if winemakers will be frank with them about their methods and their thinking. Winemakers are a sincere and intro- spective bunch, with very few bad apples. They choose their techniques for good reasons, and often the rationale runs deeper than is reported by our beloved reactionary paparazzi. Once consumers begin to learn the trade-offs involved in each practice, every winemaking strategy can develop its own following of those it is designed to serve. The real culprit in sameness is that most consumers want predictability, not unique- APPROVALS TTB LABEL Low per-label costs Gov't. Liaison Negotiations or Footwork Reasonable Hourly Rates TRADEMARK SEARCHES As Low as $185 Your trade names or designs are searched at the U.S. Patent Office to help establish valuable ownership Over 100 years' total staff experience handling every government liaison need for industry. or avoid costly legal liability. Phone or write for details. Phone: (703) 524-8200 Fax: 525-8451 TOLL-FREE 1-800-642-6564 Major Credit Cards Accepted www.trademarkinfo.com Since 1957 200 N. Glebe Rd., Suite 321 Arlington, Virginia 22203 76 Wines & Vines MAY 201 1 • VELCORIN DOSING NOW AVAILABLE! • Bottle cleaning, sparging & gravity filling • Vacuum corking & multiple head corkers • All types of capsules including SCREW CAP • Single or dual web PS labeling • NEW – 187ml bottling • 20 years of hands-on bottling experience • Supported by a winery • Experienced bottling line technicians • Technical support for bottling prep & packaging • Competitive prices References 1. Smith, Clark. "Spoofulated or Artisanal?" wine.appellationamerica.com/ wine-review/515/Spoofulated.html 2. Dressner, Joe. "The Official Fourteen Point Manifesto on Natural Wine." captaintumorman.com/comment/48/524/ ness. Paradoxically, more diversity in prod- uct offerings leads to less diversity in the stores. Since the U.S. now produces around 100 times as many wines as it did 30 years ago, this allows Safeway to create a very tight competitive cluster: the expected Mer- lot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. In this hotly competitive world, any stylistic wandering is a death sentence. The silent majority What drove together the natural wine movement in the first place was a shared discontent with available offerings in stores. But there is little hope for distinc- tive wines of place in general distribution. Of today's 100,000 domestic wines, less GovtLiaison_Dir08 11/29/07 2:00 PM Pag than 2,000 have much play in the three- tier distribution network. Like many of his ilk, Joe Dressner questions whether natu- ral wine can be made in the New World. In reality, greater diversity exists today than ever before, and in fact comprises 98% of our domestic labels. Like the natural wines of France and Ita- ly, America's fascinating diversity is not to be found on the supermarket shelves. You have to go to the source. I will venture a guess that Joe has never tried a Snake Riv- er Viognier, an Iowa Brianna, a Conneaut Chardonnay or a Wisconsin Seyval Blanc, categories that include some of America's greatest wines. California itself abounds with unsung excellence: Santa Cruz Mountains Char- donnays, San Antonio Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, Temecula Sangioveses, Suisun Valley Sauvignon Blancs and Fairplay Syr- ahs that put their mainstream counterparts to shame. American wines got way better when we weren't paying attention. The best have been tearing up the few competitions that will al- low them to enter. The cure I recommend for the Natural Whine Movement is to load up the minivan and discover America. Castoro_Nov08 10/8/08 1:54 PM Page 1 Clark Smith is winemaker for WineSmith, founder of the wine technology firm Vinova- tion. He lectures widely on an ancient yet in- novative view of American winemaking. You know how good your Zinfandel is... Promote your wines to leading Zinfandel enthusiasts and extend your winery's relationship in the market. Join Us! We are champions of Zinfandel— America's Heritage Wine Become part of our proud legacy zinfandel.org • 530-274-4900 Zinfandel Advocates & Producers is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization. ZAP is dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history.