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WINEMAKING Take home message Our work as winemakers is to create an elaborate illusion. The euphoria of great wine in perfect circumstances is similar to those perfect moments at a rock concert or symphony, when our souls feel profoundly connected and our brains don't mind the volume. When the midbrain's mysterious math determines that this sense of harmony is missing, the limbic system is alerted, and a rough edge attaches to the taste. I believe this explains why 4ppt of TCA—less than a millionth the quantity necessary to cause physi- cal astringency—nevertheless imparts harshness by masking the wine's fruit. Two warring notions, both valid: Our sense of harmony is strongly shared (if the piano is out of tune, everybody leaves the bar), but we also have a broad disparity of preferences. Lots of people just don't get it about wine. Any kid will tell you that wine is hot, sour, bitter and harsh. If you are reading this article, you somehow got past that. You had a peak experience that turned you into an oenophile. You knowhow good your Zinfandel is... Promote your wines to leading Zinfandel enthusiasts and extend your winery's relationship in the market. Join Us! We are champions of Zinfandel— America's Heritage Wine Become part of our proud legacy zinfandel.org • 530-274-4900 GroupeCharlois_Jan11.qxp 12/14/10 11:03 AM Page 1 Zinfandel Advocates & Producers is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization. ZAP is dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history. Davison Winery Supplies 1819 NE Baker St., McMinnville, Or 503-472-1711 The Northwest's Most Complete Winemaking Supply! For the professional or the beginner, we have it all. www.dwinesupplies.com Suggestions for further reading 1. Norman M.Weinberger, "Music and the Brain," Scientific American, (Dec. 12, 2006). 2. Susan M. Mayer-Smith & Clark R. Smith, "Liquid Music," Austr. Wine Ind. Tech. Conf. 2007, grapecraft.com/grapecraft/page/music.jsp. 3. Daniel J. Levitin. This Is Your Brain on Music, Penguin Books, Ltd. 2006 4. David Huron. Sweet Anticipation: Music and the Psychology of Expectation, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA. 2006. You are probably wondering what hit you. More to the point, where can you get more of that, hopefully cheaper and more reli- ably? I am here to tell you that music pairing can up your chances big time. nology firm Vinovation. He lectures widely on an ancient yet innovative view of American winemaking. To comment on this column, e-mail edit@ winesandvines.com. Clark Smith is winemaker for WineSmith, founder of the wine tech- Davison_Dir06.qxt 10/28/05 2:25 PM Page 1 64 Wines & Vines MARCH 201 1