Wines & Vines

February 2011 Barrel Issue

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READERS' MAIL Clark Smith's column about Biodynamics I n his January Postmodern Winemak- ing column about Biodynamics, Clark Smith writes, "The slice of experience within our grasp is small. Winemakers need to delve into the shadowy realms where soulfulness hangs out, and a reli- ance on rationality bars access to much of our experience. We must be able to per- ceive without understanding." In other words, science is hard, and ra- tionality is silly, stupid scientists. Wine has a magical component. If I'm understand- ing this correctly, you are not qualified to understand the current state of the art of chemical analysis, so it is easier to just give up and believe Biodynamics has merit? Ah, America, ignorance is bliss. Carl Sagan once said something along the lines of: "Argu- ments from authority are unacceptable." If you do no experiments, your ideas are simply ideas, and thereby no more than statements. It's awfully silly to base methods on them, especially ones that are fla- grantly ritual-based rather than reason-based. And can you let us know which experiments have proved that it works? Aside, of course, from authorities who say it works? Smith writes, "Modern science isn't very good at modeling complex systems," and, "Science itself may be induced to learn how to ask better questions." Really? I think science is doing just fine. The wine industry tends to be asking dumb questions and is unaware of how to set up rational experiments. But of course mod- ern science has dropped the ball. Biodynamics seems to claim that the taste of a wine is 100% where the grapes were planted, and not the bacteria and yeast as- sociated with the fermentation. After all, we can't see bacteria, and if only science would invent something like a microscope, we would be able to do that, but until then, science is patently wrong. And where is this peer-reviewed publica- tion that says prayer = health? B. Danzer Chicago, Ill. tion to the vine-growing and winemaking process as well as the earth as our host. Biodynamics should not be the only way to get into heaven. What is missing from E 10 Wines & Vines FeBRUARY 201 1 ven if I am not a Biodynamics ad- herent myself, I can understand the desire for a more meaningful connec- Write Us: Please send us your opinions about wine industry issues as well as your reactions to any of our articles. Send e-mail to edit@winesandvines.com, the high-profile debate are other examples of methodologies that convey this idea and provide ways to achieve it. As someone who has been acquainted with eastern philosophy and medicine for quite some time, I would very much like to see Masanobu Fukuoka's much-overlooked work on natural farming become part of the conversation. His agricultural experience, insight into the natural world and spiritual integrity might provide an important third viewpoint that would be con- ceptually valuable to folks on both sides of the canopy. Thanks for the fine work. Todd Trzaskos Vermont Wine Media, Stockbridge, Vt. piece as well as a most clever apologia for Biodynamics. T of its small set, should allow "magic" to exist. I am sorry, but sublimity and syn- chronicity should be allowed without the "rationality police" making the world conform to their limited view. Many claim Steiner was a crackpot, but universities compete for high school students educated in the Waldorf system (another Steiner sys- tem that defies the rational mind.) Maybe grapes and people who have been nurtured that way have something special. Thanks to Clark and your magazine. F Alex Heckathorn Compliance Service of America, Myrtle Point, Ore. S mith writes, "Meridians and acupres- sure points cannot be said to exist or not exist any more than a chromatic scale exists in music, except in the musi- cian's mind and soul." This helps me explain something I've been thinking about for a long time. Being a "good" farmer involves observation. The more he Agustin Huneeus Quintessa Vineyards, Rutherford, Calif. inally someone (Clark!) who can ex- plain why the rational mind, which cannot understand anything outside he article about Bio- dynamics is a master- piece—a literary master- observes the crops or animals he is trying to grow, the better equipped he is at making decisions affecting their health. When he sees things that are working, he continues them. When someone asks him why it is working and he cannot explain it, that person can claim there is no scientific cause and effect; still, he knows it works based on his observa- tions. Sometimes the farmer's mind and soul is just as important as the science. Darek Trowbridge Winemaker/proprietor Old World Winery, Fulton, Calif. I t is with great pleasure that I read Clark Smith's very balanced article concerning Biodynamics. While we tried a few Bio- dynamic techniques a few years back, we de- cided to focus on certified organic farming, as I could not take that "leap of faith" he wrote about. Kudos to those who have gone Biodynamic, and to quote another Steiner follower, Woody Allen, "Whatever works!" Alex Sokol Blosser Co-president Sokol Blosser Winery, Dundee Hills, Ore. B I est article ever on Biodynamics. Only Smith can include music theory, par- ticle physics and Alan Greenspan in a winemaking article. Well done. This is my "go-to" article on this very controversial topic. Bob Lindquist is farming his vineyard in the Edna Valley Biodynamically with the high-priced "help" of Philippe Armenier. Jim Adelman General manager Au Bon Climat and Qupe Wineries, Los Olivos, Calif. Techniques to extract finesse always enjoy Tim Patterson's articles, especially this last one about ther- movinification (Inquiring Winemaker, December 2010). However, we do have techniques to extract finesse. One is called common sense: Pick grapes before they shrivel. The other is called dealcoholiza- tion. Wines have gotten so heavy—not just the bottles—that you need to spoon them into a can to burn in place of Sterno. R. Dunn Angwin, Calif. Feedback or fax to (415) 453-2517. Items may be edited for clarity and brevity.

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