Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/591609
116 WINES&VINES November 2015 BUSINESS PRACTICAL WINERY & VINEYARD W ine production, quality and tourism are booming in the Okanagan Valley, the predominant wine district of five within British Columbia, Canada. The other officially designated viticultural areas are: Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands, Similkameen Valley and Vancouver Island. The boom enjoyed by 107 wineries in the Okanagan Valley has been generated in great part by the region's proximity to economically vibrant Vancouver and petrochemical- and cattle-rich Calgary, thereby minimizing sales and marketing expenditures to other parts of Canada or export markets. Grapegrowing has existed since the 1850s, with the "modern era" beginning in the early 1990s, following the provincial government's NAFTA-induced scheme to replace labrusca with vinifera and British Columbia's Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) initiative instigated by Harry McWatters (formerly of Sumac Ridge) and Gray Monk's George Heiss. Labrusca now accounts for less than 1% of total plantings. When the pull-out scheme finished there were 800 planted acres — there are more than 10,000 acres today. White varieties surpassed red plantings in 2010. Pinot Gris has been the most popular white variety, with Pinot Noir and Merlot the top reds. Whereas the nearness of the Pacific Ocean would lead one to think rainfall during the growing season is an ongoing threat, Okan- agan's southernmost Osoyoos growing district is the only official desert of the "great white north." Coming from diverse backgrounds and types of winemaking experience, the five winery lead- ers interviewed have unique stories to share. Andrew Peller Ltd. Senior winemaker Howard Soon is responsi- ble for managing Andrew Peller's Okanagan Valley winemakers and production from all five of the company's western Vintners Qual- ity Alliance members along with its Interna- tional Canadian Blends. "I have been fortunate to be in the right place at the right time. I am not that smart to know what the right path would have been, but flexibility and 'seeing what you are seeing' is important. It is like basketball: If the shot is there you take it, because if another guy is there then you may lose the ball. "I am different than many winemakers in that although I am scientific with a biochem degree, I am more about intuitiveness in know- ing my vineyard manager, which has character- ized my business decisions. You have to know when you are in the driver's seat and when to be collegial. "I will not be around forever, so building the best team, learning the business side along with winemaking, is critical. Even if we have to save money, we have to realize that we are spending our shareholders' money. If you do not sell, then there is no money to play with fancy barrels and equipment." Peller's Sandhill single-vineyard designates were the first in Canada to give credit to the people who grow the grapes, according to Soon. "My greatest regret was that I wanted to expand with unfiltered red wines but did not think it all the way through," says Soon. "I did not discuss it with my boss who ran our plant that the Cabernet Franc I was sending all went lumpy, so we had to dump the 100-case project and just hard-filter it," ingraining in him that previously mentioned "collegial" manner. Nk'Mip Cellars This lakeside winery in Osoyoos, B.C., is a joint venture between the Osoyoos Indian Band and Constellation Brands that produces about 20,000 cases per year. Fruit is sourced from the 25 acres on site in Osoyoos and from a 345-acre Inkameep Vineyard site in Oliver owned by the Osoyoos Indian Band. There is a Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa on the winery site that speaks to the native heritage and culture. Josie Tyabji, general manager of Nk'Mip Cellars, has been in the wine industry since 1984 and also contributes to the direction of the British Columbia Wine Institute as a board member. A patio restaurant opened in 2006 and serves lunch daily in April and May, and lunch and dinner from June through October, complete with sunset views over the vineyard and Lake Osoyoos. Kitchen and service crews conduct full seasonal menu tastings to select the appropriate British Columbia Wineries Industry veterans share their best and worst business decisions By David Furer The vineyards of Nk'Mip Cellars are located on the eastern shore of Lake Osoyoos.