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WINEMAKING Close watch on every tank The success of a wild fermentation is keeping a close watch on every tank and/or barrel until fermentation is complete to head off any problems that may be developing. "I observe, smell and look under the (micro)scope every day…primarily (for) Lacto- bacillus," said Antoine Favero, winemaker and general manager at Healdsburg, Calif.-based Mazzocco Winery, which produces approximately 25,000 cases of wine using wild fermentation, predominantly Zinfandel. For larger producers, "scoping" fermentations daily would over- whelm the staff. The normal protocols to monitor fermentations consist of daily monitoring of Brix levels and tasting/smelling. If a problem is detected, microscopic evaluation is performed to detect microbes such as Acetobacter, LAB and unwanted yeasts such as Brettanomyces. Testing yeast viability and Oenococcus counts also may be performed. Wild fermentations can produce a wonderful wine one vintage and a completely different wine the next. Wild fermentations in bar- rels most often have barrel-to-barrel variation due to different yeast populations in each barrel. Larger wineries want vintage-to-vintage continuity for their brand identification with the public and choose the cultivated yeast fermentations to maintain the profile. As smaller wineries grow, it may become more important for them to shorten fermentation time, reducing the time required to care for their wild fermentations and shifting their focus to faster controlled cultured fermentations. The upside of wild fermentations Many winemakers say that some problems can be dealt with in the vineyard, and the rest can be headed off by vigilance and quick reactions. These winemakers feel the risk is minimal and worth the reward. Leo S. Hansen, winemaker for Stuhlmuller Vineyards of Healds- burg, Calif., for nearly 10 years, produces approximately 14,000 cases of wine per year using only wild fermentations—both primary and secondary. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are the primary varietals. He also bottles his own brand, Leo Steen Wines, and produces a dry Chenin Blanc. Hansen wants to showcase the vineyards and strongly feels that wild yeast fermentation best expresses the terroir. "Commercial yeasts were too big," he said, "and took away from the character of the terroir and varietal." The wines Favero produces are vineyard designates, and he wants to emphasize each vineyard by accenting the terroir and capturing the varietal character, aromas, flavors and mouthfeel that a wild fermenta- tion provides. The variation of different yeasts found year to year in the vineyard "does change the wine, but there is a common thread. "It is just different," Favero said. "I welcome it." Comparing a wild fer- mentation to a cultured yeast fermentation, he said, is like "a painting of multi colors instead of a black and white." Hansen believes you must know the vineyard you are working with and watch the fermentations very closely. "I like lower pH and higher acid (fruit). Since we are an estate, it depends on the vintage and/or how early I pick. Healthy fruit/juice with higher acid and natural, balanced nutrients seems to be the happy scenario to begin fermentation." At harvest, Hansen will add some SO2 at the juice stage for whites, evaluate the red fruit quality and may not add until spring, when secondary fermentation is complete. "Every lot is treated, as needed, from crusher to spring," he said. "I even wait until summer if it is a cold spring." On average, 10% of the fermentations will stick, and Hansen will inoculate with a low dose of Saccharomyces, with the ex- ception of the past two years, when the fermentations have completed on their own. 36 Wines & Vines APRiL 2012