Wines & Vines

September 2014 Wine Industry Finance Issue

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p r a c t i c a l w i n e r y & v i n e ya r d S e p t e M B e r 2 0 1 4 69 s m a r t v i t i c u l t u r e Practices such as leaf removal may be implemented but are not necessary for a balanced, well-trellised vineyard. In the majority of situations, crop removal will not be necessary unless the variety is very fruitful and/or has very large bunches. This practice is typically carried out for psychological rather than vine physiological reasons. Desirable irrigation management can be summarized as holding off irrigation until subsoil reserves are mostly depleted, and then applying limited amounts of water to the upper root zone. The aim is to stop active shoot growth a couple of weeks before véraison with gentle water stress, yet to maintain an appropriate modicum of water stress through to harvest so that leaf health is maintained and premature leaf yellowing and defoliation are avoided. The terroirist readers will ask: What about the soil? Many ter- roir studies around the world including in France indicate that those soil attributes affecting grape composition and potential wine quality are largely influenced by the supply of water and nutrients to the vine. In dry climates and with adequate supply of irrigation water, desirable vine water-stress levels may be achieved as described above. This is more difficult when vine- yards rely on rainfall, and when soils have very high or very low water-holding capacity. The supply of nutrients to the vine is quite easily managed by a regular program of soil and foliage testing, and there is no excuse for nutrient deficiency in modern vineyards. Another soil attribute that the modern viticulturist can man- age is soil variation. Variation of soils within a vineyard, even within a vineyard block, is well recognized and understood. Even in a well-irrigated and well-fertilized vineyard there can be differences in vine vigor within one block. Numerous studies have shown that there are implications of this for fruit composi- tion and potential wine quality. The viticulturist can determine patterns of such variation using devices like infrared imaging, either from the ground or air. Zones of different vigor may be managed differently, for example by irrigation or trellising or pruning or harvesting. Conclusion This brief summary has indicated the large impacts a modern viticulturist can have on the fruit composition and potential wine quality of the fruit he or she delivers to the winery. I think the role of the viticulturist is not recognized in many wine sectors. How often do we see prizes for winemakers, and who has ever seen a prize for a viticulturist for achieving wine quality? For modern table wines, I believe that more manipulation of wine quality occurs in the vineyard than in the winery. I believe it is denigrating to viticulturists to put vineyard effects on wine quality down to terroir, and not to recognize the very important role of the viticulturist in producing fine wine quality. I want to conclude this column on a positive note, by putting the topic in a contemporary setting. For many companies around the world, viticulturists/vineyard managers are considered an integral part of the "winemaking team." I include a photo of such a winemaking team from among my global clients (see page 68). The team is from the Delegat's Wine Estates in New Zealand, where the internationally popular Oyster Bay brand is produced, notably Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. They are adopting "world best viticultural practices" to improve vineyard profit- ability and fruit composition for winemaking. PWV Dr. Richard Smart is rewriting and thoroughly revising "Sunlight into Wine." Interested persons should contact Dr. Smart by email at rich- ard@smartvit.com.au. Dr. Smart visits the U.S. frequently, and consult- ing appointments also can be made by email. See smartvit.com.au.

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