Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/365438
W i n e s & V i n e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 4 37 W i N E M a k i N G Method No. 2 hyper-oxidized must treated reductively after fermentation. example: Typically used for aromatic varieties where density is not prized, such as in German Mosels. desired outcome: Lean, age-worthy aromatic varieties with high native phenolics that can other- wise generate peroxide, which oxidizes terpenes. techniques: Juice is ini- tially unsulfited, given one to three saturations of oxy- gen that is consumed within two hours—often in concert with gelatin fining and flota- tion of solids. Post fermen- tation, the resulting wines, which are low in phenolics, are handled reductively as in Method No. 1. Comments: Winemakers are often shocked to see brown, muddy musts transformed into lean, fresh, straw-green wines of great freshness and longevity. Method No. 3 Structured wines incorporate tannin as a positive element. example: Muscadet sur lie, Savennières. desired outcome: Multi- dimensional, age-worthy wines that, after an initial pleasant stage in which the wine shows well based on fermentation bouquet, may experience a reductive adolescent phase before blooming into maturity five to 10 years later. techniques: Tannins are intentionally introduced through variety and site soil selection, skin contact, hard pressing and sometimes well-cured, untoasted oak in the fermentor. Lees are stirred frequently until tannins are enrobed by protein, as in milk chocolate. Comments: Resulting structure integrates aromas as in red wines. Method No. 4 Clay jar wines (known in Italy as 'orange wines' and in Georgia as qvevri wines) generally are made from semi-aromatic varieties. example: Kakheti Rkatsitelli, Friuli Ribolla. desired outcome: Highly complex, tannic wines re- sembling alcoholic tea requiring five to 10 years aging to smooth out and open up. The wines appear oxidized, but they are actually quite reductive. techniques: Crushed grapes in their entirety—in- cluding juice, pomace, seeds and stems—are sealed in a clay jar buried in earth and racked off after six months. Spontaneous alcoholic and malolactic fer- mentation, high phenolic extraction, lees contact. Little or no oak influence, though oak uprights are sometimes employed during aging. Comments: This is the oldest form of winemaking. It dates back 8,000 years and was not widely prac- ticed in contemporary winemaking until its recent resurgence. It is said that a qvevri was buried when a son was born and opened and consumed on his wedding day. Some inventive winemakers are tinkering with clay fermentation vessels in the United States, but the first clay jar wines from Italy and Georgia embodied a different style that could take 10 years to reach maturity. Hand stirring of the lees is part of this historic winemaking method. AGNe27