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JUNE NEWS What Distinguishes Paso Cab? Winemakers connect characteristics to the region's climate, soil and people P aso Robles, Calif.—What makes Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles different from Cabernet grown elsewhere in California? Is it the climate, the soil or the people? Six winemakers debated this topic and others April 27 as part of the inaugural CABs of Distinction event for media, trade and consumers in this upland section of San Luis Obispo County. Here Cabernet Sauvignon, traditional in Bordeaux, is the most widely planted cultivar, but Rhone Valley grape varieties often capture much of the public's attention. The winemakers each brought a wine to share with the group of 40 media and trade members assembled in a tent adjacent to an immaculate horse barn at Windfall Farms on the east side of the 614,000-acre Paso Robles American Viticultural Area. They described the style of wines made from Cabernet and other Bordeaux-bred grape varieties in the AVA as brighter in flavor, Paso Robles winemakers make the case for Cabernet during an April 27 panel discussion. naturally high in acidity and with tamer but rich tannins compared to wines from the state's standard bearer for high quality Cabernet: Napa Valley. Then they detailed what factors they winesandvines.com Learn more: believe create the Search keywords differences. "Paso Robles Cab." Kevin Willenborg, winemaker for Vina Robles, said the defining characteristics of the Paso Robles terroir are the high diurnal temperature variance (as much as 50°F) and very limited soil nutrients in the generally calcare- ous, high-pH soil that controls the natural vigor of Cabernet vines. These factors help explain how a region with summer temperatures frequently hitting 100°F can produce vibrant wines that don't need acidification, according to another speaker, Daniel Daou, who owns Daou Vineyards with his brother. "We came here because we thought we could achieve ripeness every year," said Daou, who was a founder of the Paso Robles Cab Collective, which hosted the event. "The soils here are very different compared to much of California. The clay gives you richness; the calcareous composition gives you natural acidity," Daou said. A low level of rainfall in Paso compared to Sonoma and Napa counties is an advantage, said Steve Peck, winemaker for J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines. "Our opportunity here is that we don't have to dry moisture out of the soil, but we may need to drive it up." —Jim Gordon Mike Grgich Turns 90 Napa Valley legend reflects on career spent in winemaking R utherford, Calif.—Celebrating his 90th birthday with a tasting and lunch for media members and friends, California winemaking legend Miljenko "Mike" Grgich reminded his guests about familiar facts from his life and added many interesting tidbits. Grgich is the immigrant winemaker from Croatia who has worked in Napa Valley for 55 years and co-owned Grgich Hills Cellar (now Grgich Hills Estate) since 1977. He was the winemaker responsible for the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that, along with Stag's Leap Wine Cellars' Cabernet Sauvignon, forever made California a legitimate contender with France in winemaking. Grgich worked with some of Napa Valley's founding winemakers, including Andre Tchelistcheff, before joining Chateau Montelena as winemaker in 1972. Ironically Jim Barrett, who owned Chateau Montelena, died just a short time before Grgich's anniversary, and he and Grgich remained on strained terms. Without mentioning him by name, Grgich complained during his celebration about owners who act like they're winemakers, saying it's a phenomenon that continues today. Grgich solved that problem by creating his own winery with help from Austin Hills, who provided capital and vines but has stayed mainly in the background. Hailey and Janet Trefethen (from left) present Mike Grgich with a larger than life birthday cake while Grgich's daughter Violet watches. Once rising to 100,000 cases per year, the winery's production has dropped to a more comfortable level winesandvines.com Learn more: of 60,000 to 70,000 for optimum qualSearch keywords ity. Over the years, the winery also bought "Grgich turns 90." vineyards that now total 366 acres in Napa Valley, all certified organic. "You need to control the vineyards to make great wine," claims Grgich. Today Mike Grgich lives in Palm Springs, Calif., leaving the winery's fortune primarily in the hands of his daughter, Violet Grgich, and nephew Ivo Jeramaz. He says his nose, the source of much of his good fortune, can't take the pollen and other allergens of Napa Valley anymore. Aside from a hearing aid and a cane, Grgich remains as impish as always. —Paul Franson Win es & Vi n es JU NE 20 13 19