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52 WINES&VINES April 2018 OAK BARREL ALTERNATIVES mal. I believe that how the manufacturer handles the toast- ing process and how the wine- maker does the extraction are key to using oak alternatives for qual- ity wines that will never be ac- cused of being "chipped." Another consideration when using oak particles is how to get oxygen into the barrel or con- tainer holding that wine. There are many ways to get the oxygen into the wine, from special tanks to specialized dosing devices. In the 1990s, research on the use of oxygen in winemaking and the sources of oak flavor from barrels resulted in the first micro-oxygen- ation equipment. Using oak alternatives Another, often better, solution is to control the toasting of the final product and then allow for a quicker extraction of the oak flavors. We now have the tools to create designer oak alterna- tives through these technolo- gies. However, that is only the beginning of the process from the winemaker's perspective. If your winemaking style requires more of a certain compound here, then you want a supplier who uses techniques that give that result. For background, I interviewed many winemakers from a variety of winery sizes and locations. The vast majority of winemakers were not permitted by their manage- ment to reveal that they used any type of oak barrel alternative. As a result, I am not quoting any winemaker specifically, even though it is estimated that about 95% of wineries use these materi- als in some manner. This reluctance is unfortunate. Too many in the wine industry fear that if it becomes known that they use oak alternatives in their $50-plus bottles of wine, it will be perceived as an inherently lesser wine. Barrel alternative products are like any tool. In the hands of a careful artist, a tool becomes an extension of his or her implemen- tation of the craft. The more con- trol the tool allows, the better the artist will be. In my discussions with wine- makers across the country and internationally, I have found that more and more of them are using the range of oak alternatives much like a painter's palette. It is obvious that winemakers have available a range of choices in barrel alternatives to use when crafting their wines and imparting the flavors they want into a wine. The problem facing most wine- makers is the perennial problem of attention to detail. With all of these tools, there is no reason to have over-oaked wines—unless a winemaker is not paying attention or that is his or her preferred style. Most winemakers I have spo- ken with are using oak alterna- tives in their less expensive wines and are trying to extend the life of their existing barrels. Most re- search shows that barrels do not transmit nearly as much oxygen once the barrels are older than three years. To me, this indicates that winemakers should be con- sidering some level of micro-oxy- genation if that is the direction they are headed. For more than a decade Tonnellerie Berthomieu has been part of Groupe Charlois, the only cooperage group that is completely integrated from forestry operations to the finished product. Benefiting from the reputation of the Groupe Charlois, its knowledge of oak and savoir-faire offer a unique advantage.Located in one of the most renowned oak forests in France, the cooperage distinguishes itself by its unique steam bending process and by its exceptional selection of oak from France's most prestigious forests. Office: 1285 Foothill Blvd Cloverdale, CA 95425 Ph: (707) 224-2377 Fax: (707) 224-2390 www.berthomieu.com Planks cut into blocks work more quickly than long staves.