Wines & Vines

February 2018 Barrel Issue

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WINEMAKING TECHNICAL SPOTLIGHT 54 WINES&VINES February 2018 Scientific pH meter and Astoria-Pacific rAPID-T analyzer that can run glucose, fruc- tose, NOPA and malic acid. For more com- plicated analysis, Vidrine sends samples to ETS Laboratories. During the most recent vintage, one of those more complicated analyses was for smoke taint compounds. When Wines & Vines visited the winery in early September, much of Southern Oregon was blanketed by a thick layer of smoke from several fires in the area. Vidrine was not too concerned but admitted any time there's smoke on the grapes after véraison, there is some reason to worry. He said little to no ash accumulated on the grapes, however. "Most of the time, or most of the season, it's been hazy but not intensely smoky," he said. Donovan, who remembered the smoke- tainted vintage of 2013 said 2017, said there has been nothing like that year. In 2013, the Irvines opted not to release any of their Pinot Noir because they felt the wine did not meet their standards for quality. Dionne Irvine said that absorbing the cost on that vintage is one example of how the couple has sought to do everything the best they could in starting an estate winery. "If it's not absolutely perfect, we're just not going to do it," she said. Red wines ferment in small, open-top tanks and after pressing will age in mostly new, lightly toasted French oak barrels.

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