Wines & Vines

February 2018 WINES&VINES 31 VIEWPOINT F E B R U A R Y 2 4 - 2 5 2 0 1 8 Riesling Pinot Gris Pinot Blanc Gewürztraminer Muscat Presented by Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association Educational Sessions, Grand Tasting, Winemaker Dinner, Winery Open Houses For more information and tickets visit www.avwines.com T H I R T E E N T H A N N U A L A N D E R S O N V A L L E Y A R O M A T I C W H I T E W I N E F E S T I V A L Alcohol Many regions have experienced increases in sugar concentration, resulting in potential al- cohol elevation of 1% to 2%. However, others have noted that the average sugar level at harvest has not significantly changed over the years, suggesting that grape sugar level is not only dependent upon weather, it is influenced by a multitude of other factors including yield. Research on additional methods for alco- hol removal, and the selection and creation of yeasts that produce less alcohol, will cer- tainly continue. Industry strategies and flexibility There is an old expression that suggests advice is free unless it is followed. Below are recom- mendations for adjusting to the ever-changing reality of climate change: • Be flexible, not formulaic, with vine- yard/wine processing regimens. • Use and share scientific information. • Be out in the vineyard. • Invest in wine and grape research. Smoke taint There may not be a better example illustrating the need for research investment than smoke taint. Climate change and how forest land has been managed has resulted in an increase in the incidence of forest fires. 5 The fires have added a relatively new term to the winegrow- er's lexicon: smoke taint. Smoke residue con- tains high concentrations of volatile phenols such as guaiacol and eugenol. The glycosylated forms of these phenols tend to accumulate in the grape skin and pulp. These compounds are released during fermentation, causing wines to become unpleasantly "pharmaceutical," "dirty," "medicinal" or "burnt," with "ash tray" and "campfire" characteristics that reduce the perception of fruit aroma intensity. 11 Climate change dilemma and science skepticism Some people have been under the impression that in U.S. society no one should suffer; we all work together for common benefits, and once a danger is understood, the problem will be addressed. That is, the government will work to protect all of our citizens. Unfortu- nately, that has not been true with regard to climate change. Capitalism acknowledges that there will be destructive consequences to the pursuit of private prosperity and financial gains. Corporations sug- gest that they did not mean to pollute the river but are quite pleased to have someone else pay to fix it. However, what do we do if it is not a river, but the entire planet being degraded as a result of human-induced climate change? Curtis White (author of Science Delusion) asks: "Are taxpayers going to have to pay for a new planet?" He suggests that the oligarchs and their supporters (the so-called 1%, the highest income individuals in our society) have a Faustian view, but they are not stupid. Their habitude is to do nothing about the changing climate because they do not want to, and be- cause the threat of destruction is not persua- sive to them. They are quite pleased to have others pay for any corrections that may be needed. It would appear that their motto is According to Spanish winemaker Miguel Tor- res, climate change is the greatest threat for the wine business and winegrowers. Yet in the United States, man- induced climate change skepticism abounds.

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