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4 WINES&VINES February 2018 PUBLISHING INFORMATION: Volume 99 Number 2. Wines & Vines, ISSN 043-583X, a member of Wine Communications Group, Sonoma, Calif., is published monthly. Periodicals postage paid at San Rafael and at additional mailing offices. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited. Wines & Vines does not assume responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. Contributors are responsible for the proper release of proprietary and/or classified information. Wines & Vines is distributed through an audited circulation. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: U.S., $38; Canada/ Mexico, $48; All other countries, $85 (for airmail add $85). POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Wines & Vines, PO Box 1649, Boulder, CO 80306-1649. 48 OAK BARRELS 34 What Makes Hungarian Oak Barrels Unique? A visit to the Zemplén forest sheds light on these vessels' quality and char- acteristics. By Jim Gordon 40 Exploring French Oak and Napa Cabernet In blind tasting, a winemaker gets help evaluating barrels with sensory and objective lab analysis. By Andrew Adams WINEMAKING 48 Technical Spotlight: Irvine & Roberts Estate winery focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Southern Oregon with no-frills winery designed for adaptation. By Andrew Adams GRAPEGROWING 62 Smoke Taint in Wine How smoke-derived volatiles accumulate in grapevines. By Katja Härtl and Wilfried Schwab 66 How Semillon Grapes Adapt to Botrytis Researchers describe the effects of noble rot on Far Niente Dolce. By Thomas Ulrich 74 Traminette Goes Commercial How two wineries grow and vinify this aromatic white wine variety in New York and Indiana. By Ray Pompilio BUSINESS 70 Building an Online Wine Marketplace After integrating Vin65, WineDirect now sets sights on online wine sales. By Andrew Adams 34 74 6 Connect With Us 8 Editor's Letter 81 Advertiser Index 82 Faces & Forums METRICS 10 Wine Sales Post Steady Growth Through December. PRODUCTS 24 News Create Labels With Depth. 56 Focus Micro-Ox Systems. NEWS 12 Top Stories New York Fines Southern; Out-of- State AVA Labels. 72 Eastern News Nova Scotia Grow- ers Map Risks and Opportunities; Were Vines Ready for Bomb Cyclone? COLUMNS 26 Viewpoint How Climate Change Affects Winegrowing. By Dr. Bruce Zoecklein