Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/853816
62 WINES&VINES August 2017 WINEMAKING WINE EAST P inot Noir is a difficult cultivar to grow successfully. Named "the heartbreak grape" by Marq De Villiers in his 1994 book about winemaker Josh Jensen at the Calera Wine Co., it continues to challenge growers and wine- makers throughout numerous grapegrowing regions, especially in New York's cool-climate Finger Lakes. This challenge is being met head-on by a partnership stretching from Gigondas, France, to Hector, N.Y., with its center at Forge Cellars on the east shore of Seneca Lake. The three partners include Louis Barruol, winegrower and winemaker for Chateau de Saint Cosme, owned by his family since 1570 (Barruol is the 42nd family member to serve as winemaker), and two wine professionals in the Finger Lakes: wine- maker Justin Boyette and general manager/ vineyard manager, Rick Rainey. Forge Cellars' 2011 vintage, its first, was produced at the Hec- tor Wine Co., where Boyette is winemaker. Each vintage through 2016 was produced there, but Forge now has a brand-new stand- alone facility built nearby. The winery produces wines only from Riesling and Pinot Noir. The 2015 and 2016 vintages are currently aging at the new winery, and 2017 will be the first vin- tage produced there. The new, energy-efficient winery facility is a 6,500-square-foot building designed and built under the direction of Rick Rainey. It was constructed of structural insulated panels (SIP) built by Energy Panel Structures Inc. (EPS Buildings) based in Graettinger, Iowa, and as- sembled onsite by JLS Construction of Clyde N.Y. It has R35 insulation in the walls, R45 insulation in the ceilings and was placed on an insulated foundation done by Superior Walls of Upstate New York, in Lima, N.Y. All plumbing and electrical components are surface mounted for ease in possible expansion and replacement. It has high-efficiency heat pumps and air conditioning units installed by Wixson Heating and Cooling of Alpine, N.Y., and all the piping for the chillers is insulated by Cool-Fit ABS, made by Georg Fischer North America LLC of Irvine, Calif. The winery uses propane for its forklift and hot water. The high- efficiency theme includes LED lighting from Big Ass Fans & Lights based in Lexington, Ky., and all final trim work and concrete pouring was done by Schickel Construction, of Ithaca, N.Y. The genesis of Forge Cellars dates back almost 20 years, to when Rick Rainey began his Finger Lakes wine experiences at nearby Chateau LaFayette Reneau. Before long, his wine career changed from production to dis- tribution, and he worked several years with Winebow, a prominent importer and whole- saler of fine wines. Rainey's job required trav- eling to France, which led him to meet Louis Barruol. Unknown to Rainey, Barruol had been contemplating working with cool-cli- mate grapes not common to the Rhône Valley. One day, over lunch in Gigondas, Rainey was describing the characteristics of the Finger Lakes, and Barruol became interested in learn- ing more. About two months later, Barruol came to the United States to take a close look at the region. "The next thing you know, he was here," Rainey recalls. "He told me he had always wanted to do a project outside of France but never found a place that was right." At that time, Justin Boyette was working at a Seneca Lake winery, Atwater Estate Vine- yards, and part-time at a nearby fine wine shop owned by Rainey's wife. When Barruol visited, Rainey asked Boyette to set up appointments at Finger Lakes wineries and vineyards. The three began visiting locations together in fall 2007, spending the next year and a half search- ing for sites, tasting wines, taking soil samples and finally deciding to make a commitment. In 2008 Boyette also teamed with Jason Hazlitt to design and open the Hector Wine Co., where Boyette remains winemaker. Hazlitt had deep roots in the area: He is the grandson of Jim Hazlitt, who pioneered the expansion of vinif- era viticulture along Seneca Lake. Hector Wine Co. produced its first vintage in 2009, and Forge Cellars followed with its own first vintage in 2011. Forge Cellars pur- chased grapes from eight vineyards in the Finger Lakes, all but one on the east side of Seneca Lake, with the other on the west shore of Keuka Lake. Forge also hopes to encourage contract growers to expand their Pinot plant- ings and wants to be a prominent producer of that wine in the region. Although they will continue to purchase grapes, Forge Cellars wants to establish its own identity with an estate vineyard. Tackling Pinot Noir in the Finger Lakes At Forge Cellars, partners from the Rhône Valley and New York meet the challenge By Ray Pompilio KEY POINTS Two New York wine professionals created a part- nership with a French winemaker from the Gigo- ndas AOC to help Pinot Noir flourish in the Finger Lakes region. The winemakers at Hector Wine Co. and Cha- teau de Saint Cosme formed Forge Cellars in 2011 and have produced six vintages of Pinot Noir in New York. The key to great Pinot Noir, the team believes, lies in the management of the vineyard's trellis as well as hand-picking the grapes according to specific ripeness within the blocks. PHOTOS BY RAY POMPILIO UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED "We take pictures of the grapes, tell (Louis Barruol) how they taste and describe the conditions at each vineyard." —Justin Boyette, Forge Cellars winemaker