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WINEMAKING As journalist Alan Goldfarb commented upon comparing my 12.9% Faux Chablis against the original 14.8% version, "The unadjusted is more authentic, but the 12.9% has more terroir expression." Barrels vs. alternatives: For the tradi- tionalist, French oak barrels symbolize the epitome of artisanality, separating the sa- cred chapels of the boutique elite from the immense tank farms of the typical Central Valley industrial mega-producer. Yet to the informed environmentalist, a new French oak barrel as a flavoring de- vice represents the grossest form of waste- fulness and affluent display. French oak barrels are made from 200-year-old trees, and 75% of the prime wood of these ven- erable trees is discarded because it cannot be fashioned into a piece of watertight fine furniture. Used instead as sources of oak extractives, chips and other barrel alterna- tives could reduce this carnage four-fold. Barrels today are no longer primar- ily consumed by small wineries. Decades ago, Robert Mondavi chose the device of installing 100,000 barrels to distinguish his infant Woodbridge within the big val- ley. Not to be outdone, Bronco and other competitors followed in short order with six-figure installations of their own. Today, Robert Mondavi popularized the mass use of oak barrels, even for value-priced wines. the lion's share of barrels is housed in vast valley warehouses, resulting in deforesta- tion on a scale never before seen. Gluten-allergic consumers also have Ranch-WV-031511.pdf 3/16/11 4:50:21 PM raised questions about wheat paste com- monly used in repairing barrel leaks. Oak alternatives avoid this issue and permit winemaking in neutral stainless steel on any desired scale. Micro-oxygenation, a technique that caused Alice Feiring in 2001 to declare, "Wine is made in the lab, not the vine- yard," poses a conundrum of equal depth. On the one hand, what additive could be Everything you need to make your very best wine. CRUSH | WINEMAKING | BARREL & BULK STORAGE | BOTTLING 707.963.4520 RANCHWINERY.COM SAINT HELENA, CA, NAPA VALLEY 74 Wines & Vines MAY 201 1