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CO VER S T OR Y Here's the Capper No longer seen as déclassé, screwcaps broaden the packaging palette By Jane Firstenfeld I Sauvignon Blanc and other wines under screwcap for years, the closure contin- ues to gain acceptance in other latitudes. "In exporting to Europe, a lot of places really want screwcap," according to Bob Swain, winemaker for Mendocino Wine Co., Ukiah, Calif., which exports about 5% of its 150,000-case production across the Atlantic. Frederic Catteau, general manager at n the past decade screwcap wine closures have been transformed from dubious experiments to an established option accepted around the world. Vastly preferred by New Zealand producers, who've been topping an esti- mated 90% of their popular the American Canyon, Calif., manufac- turing headquarters for French-owned Amcor Flexibles, which produces vari- ous styles of Stelvin-brand screwcaps, commented, "Other parts of the world are switching at a much higher speed" than wineries in the United States. "The latest example is the Chilean market," which, he said, is changing dramatically, led by Concha y Toro, which recently purchased California's Fetzer Vineyards. Consumer awareness of screwcaps is driving the continuing, slower paced change stateside, Catteau continued. "A new generation of drinkers and winemakers…believe in quality im- provement and consistency with this product," and they feel free to bypass traditional closures, he said. Gisela Cartwright, who manages U.S. sales of MALA Closure Systems, another top European manufacturer, agreed there is a generational difference in screwcap acceptance. "More and more young peo- ple turn to wine as a preferred beverage 24 Wines & Vines AUGUsT 201 1 and jump into a market in transition. For them, a screwcap does not necessar- ily diminish the quality of a wine." Cartwright said that winemakers also are driving the shift. "Traditionalists trust in the decisions of their preferred wineries and go along with the screw- cap if 'their' winemaker does. It's a sym- biotic process, I think. Decision-makers in the wine production process have recognized the benefits of a screwcap… technically and financially." Recently, Washington state's 570,000- case Hogue Cellars completed a multi- year study of screwcaps (for details, see "Hogue Puts All Wines Under Screwcap" on page 16). Prior to Hogue's release in late June, Co Dinn, director of winemak- ing, said, "Until now, acceptable wine- aging standards have been defined by the cork closure. However, results from the study…show that wines aged under the right screwcap closure over five years were more well preserved, aged well and were deemed the highest quality choice by an expert tasting panel." While there are no reliable statistics about the exact percentage of wines sold in the U.S. currently topped with screwcaps, "Glass sales are up about 10% over the last year," for bottles that fit classic 30mm x 60mm Stelvin screwcaps, said Kyle Rossler, vice presi- dent of sales and marketing at Encore! Glass, Benicia, Calif. Encore does not manufacture screwcaps but provides them as a service to bottle buyers. Winemakers weigh advantages Alternative packaging has taken on many different shapes in recent years: in the box, out of the box, pouches, kegs, plastic bottles/glasses and more. With most wine still sold in glass bottles, and closure suppliers continually striving to improve natural and synthetic stoppers, fine wine with a screwcap doesn't seem nearly as radical as it once did. Screw- capped bottles fit easily into traditional shippers, display cases and home wine racks; bottle shapes, colors and sizes remain the same, and labeling retains its usual challenges and satisfactions. This frees winemakers to pair clo- sures with the appropriate wine variety, style and price point. Many are doing just that: matching and mixing among brands, varietals and markets. Swain at Mendocino Wine Co. (MWC) takes advantage of the new flexibility. His decisions involve both the prospective lifespan of the wines and life on planet Earth: Under the ownership of environmentalists Paul Dolan and Tim and Tom Thornhill, the winery weighs the green aspects of all winemaking and packaging components. "No. 1, we're a winery: We make wine. No. 2, we're green," Swain said. "If it comes to a quality decision, it's quality before green. You can go back and forth, either using screwcaps or natural corks." MWC's popular Parducci Wine Cel- lars line uses both: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are sealed with natural cork and finished with polylaminate capsules from Maverick Enterprises. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris are screwcapped with printed and embossed Saranex- lined Stelvin tops from Amcor Flexibles, as is the company's whimsical ZigZag Zin. For Paul Dolan's pricier self- named line, Swain buys screwcaps from Modesto-Calif.-based G3 Enterprises; cork-closed varieties are topped with tin capsules from Napa's Ramondin USA. Swain pointed out that, with breath- able Saranex liners, "Screwcaps keep