Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/66128
CO VER S T OR Y Desperation or Diversification? Many California growers profited by making bulk wine during oversupply, and some plan to continue By Paul Franson Growers like Beckstoffer vineyards, whose Bourn vineyard in St. Helena, Calif., is shown at left, have made wine at wineries like Francis Ford Coppola's Geyserville, Calif., facility (right) when they couldn't sell grapes profitably. Now many see selling bulk wine as a viable alternative to selling only grapes. With the supply suddenly tightening, how- ever, many have found that making bulk wine was a good decision. Some growers report that they're making more from the bulk wine than they could have gotten for the grapes alone. Some even see it as an al- ternative path for the future—even if there are plenty of buyers for their grapes today. Winegrower Michael Rowan looks at the situation that way. He owns 18-acre Wine Creek Vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley of California, where he grows Cabernet Sauvi- gnon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. He says that for the past five or six years the market has been unpredictable, particularly as to D 22 Wines & Vines JUne 2012 uring the recent grape glut, many growers felt forced to make bulk wine when they couldn't get the prices they sought for their grapes—or couldn't sell their crops at all. who would buy grapes and who would repeat their purchases. "We faced being at the end of October with no customers. We had to look at the alternatives." As a result, he made wine six of the past seven years. "It's turned out to be very workable for me," he says. Rowan says that it's important to make good wine. He originally fermented the wine himself, but more recently he has used Mike Draxton in nearby Windsor, Calif. "I'm very comfortable with him. We take the same approach, and I have little to add once we agree on how to proceed." Rowan likes the fact that Draxton is set up to offer wine to many buyers. "The wine won't sell itself, and he has contacts." He says the last lot he sold (2010) took 18 months, but it was his best lot. "I netted 15% above the Sonoma County average after crush fees." Highlights • With today's grape shortage, growers who made bulk wine from the past two harvest seasons are doing well financially. • Some growers and even wineries can make more money selling bulk wine than by selling grapes or even bottles of wine. • The grape shortage may last five years, but growers are expected to continue making bulk wine as a way to balance assets.