Wines & Vines

February 2015 Barrel Issue

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Technical spoTlighT winemaking February 2015 Wines&Vines 43 expired, and the project faced local controversy as well as a two-year wait for an election. The resort ultimately won, but Keys and Borsack had to consider alternatives and found a 12-acre horse ranch (Vintage Oak Ranch) owned by Lisa Miller. It's in the heart of Napa Cabernet country, and nearby wineries include Silver Oak, PlumpJack, Groth, Gargiulo, Rudd and Screaming Eagle. After acquiring the property, B Cellars ob- tained its permit March 6, 2012, and broke ground at the end of June 2013. The architect was Hart Howerton of San Francisco, Calif., and the general contractor was Facility Devel- opment Corp. of Santa Rosa, Calif. The winery hosted a group of country club managers Aug. 18, 2014. "We opened here before construction is starting at the resort in Calistoga," Keys noted. The visitor experience "We want to make the visitor experience as rich as possible," Keys said. Among the amenities are a big garden and Jidori chickens, two cork oak trees, a croquet court and the orchards. Visitors can taste outside in good weather, and the winery also has private rooms for up to 24 people. Tastings are by appointment only, and a con- cierge will assist visitors with other appoint- ments and arrangements, too. "We want our visitors to experience Napa Valley like an insider, and we'll take on that challenge for them." As an example, each guest will have a per- sonalized place tag for the seated tasting (in- side or outside). The tastings, which start at $45, pair B Cellars wines with food. A winery guide will lead a tour highlighting the culinary gardens, caves and estate vineyards. Preparing the food will be the job of chef Brian Michael Green, who began his career working at (Wolfgang) Puck's in the St. Louis Art Museum, followed by the Euclid Hospitality Group, Sidney Street Café, Café Boulud and Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York, N.Y. He also manages the winery's culinary gardens, stone fruit orchard and flock of hens. Christina Machamer is director of wine and culinary programs. She switched from studying pre-law to an apprenticeship for chef Larry Forgione at An American Place, then attended The Culinary Institute of America and com- pleted an externship for the Caneel Bay Resort on St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands. She ap- peared in the fourth season of Hell's Kitchen, then moved to Los Angeles, Calif., at Gordon Ramsay's London West Hollywood Hotel, then became opening chef de partie for Thomas Keller's Bouchon in Beverly Hills, Calif. She also studied wine. Winemaking Derek Taylor assists winemaker Kirk Venge in producing 14 different wines. Co-founder Bor- sack noted, "All the grapes could be used to produce vineyard-designated wines, but our philosophy is to produce mostly blended wines." He explained, "Blended wines let us over- come the vagaries of weather. Some vineyards have off years, but the consumer doesn't care. They want the wines to be consistent." He added, "We don't give up on a variety just because it isn't popular," hence the use of varieties such as Syrah and Sangiovese. B Cel- lars now gets its Sangiovese from Benessere Vineyards in St. Helena. "We've very happy with it," Borsak said. " All the grapes could be used to produce vineyard- designated wines, but our philosophy is to produce mostly blended wines." —Derek Taylor, associate winemaker —continues on page 46

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