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62 W i n e s & V i n e s M AY 2 0 1 4 W inemakers at several d ifferent wineries are reporting that they're impressed with early results from fermenting and storing wine in clay vessels. In another example of how what's old in winemaking often becomes new again, imported amphoras and clay ves- sels produced in the United States are finding a place in cellars. Those who have used clay say it imparts unique flavors and aromas to the wine while also giving it a different texture. Alex MacGregor, winemaker at Sara- cina Vineyards in Hopland, Calif., said his work developing fermentors with supplier Mission Clay remains "dynamic." Varied glazes and firing MacGregor said this past harvest he filled ten 10-gallon clay cylinders with Char- donnay juice, fermented it and left it on the lees. Each clay vessel underwent slightly different treatments to help deter- mine how different firing temperatures and glazes affect the wine. "What this study with the 2013 wines will tell us about is whether or not some glazing is better than just naked clay," he said. "I think we're gravitating for a glaze; you want it to be porous, but you want to control the ullage on it." By this year's harvest, MacGregor said he's hopeful Mis- sion Clay will have some large-scale proto- types for him to use. Saracina also has about 500 gallons of 2011 Syrah that Mac- Gregor has aged in a clay column with lids on both ends sealed with beeswax. He said he's fairly confi- dent he'll be able to release the wine on the market. He said the Syrah in the clay tastes distinct compared to oak and steel, and in fact MacGregor prefers it. He likened the clay-aged Syrah to that of a Rhonê wine aged in foudre featuring a "wet, granitey" aroma and—although he admitted a distaste for the term—a minerality. "It's got to be related to the porosity, I think," MacGregor said. He said the wine in the clay container wouldn't retain free SO 2 at all, yet it hasn't suffered from excessive VA or Brett. In February 2013, MacGregor also filled four clay "barrels" that hold about 57 gallons and can be laid on racks with 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. Italian amphoras finding an audience Jeff Cohn, owner of JC Cellars in Oak- land, Calif., readily admits to a propensity for experimentation. This past harvest he tried using an Italian amphora for fer- menting and aging a small lot of Sonoma County Zinfandel. He said he's impressed with the results. "Every time we taste it we're like, 'Wow, that's kind of neat.'" The fruit came from the Cassata vine- yard, which is a Biodynamic property near Glen Ellen, Calif. Cohn split off about one bin of the 10 tons he purchased from the vineyard for an amphora. He said the fruit from the vineyard could yield Zins that evoke wines from the southern Rhonê or Italy, and so he thought clay could be a good match. He said an Italian harvest intern, whose family owns a winery where they make wine with amphora, kept an eye on the project during harvest. Cohn said it appeared everything happened faster in the amphora, and the finished wine came out rounder and silkier. The wine also has a creaminess that's not unlike milk choco- late, Cohn said. The amphora is an Artenova imported through Ipak Wine, which is owned by Emanuele "Manu" Fiorentini. He said he's received a tremendous response from winemakers since bringing the amphora Winemakers Give Clay a Close Look Trials indicate clay fermentors provide characteristics different from steel, concrete By Andrew Adams Highlights • Winemakers report that wines fermented in clay have a distinct texture. • The vessels have potential for both fermentation and aging. • Fermentors can be imported from Europe, but a few U.S. suppliers are developing their own products. Winemaker Jeff Cohn (above) reports that his clay vessels create 'silkier' wines. Winery supplier Ipak Wine imports these clay fermentation vessels from Italy. W I N E M A K I N G