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54 W i n e s & V i n e s M AY 2 0 1 4 conducting small-lot fermentations to achieve better control. He said he wants his wines to exhibit brambly, sauvage fruit with good color and complex aro- matics. "It comes from the vineyard, and we're just maximizing what's there by correct fermentation. Don't burn out the flavors with too much heat: Let every- thing develop with the proper nitrogen," he said. Fermentation is conducted with a mix of Lallemand and Laffort yeasts from Scott Laboratories. "I like fermenting in 5-ton lots; it's easier to control, I think, and I can have two tanks of Zinfandel and use two types of yeasts and end up with more complexity—at least I like to think so." Once fermentation is complete, Mont- gomery presses each lot with a Bucher Vaslin XPR08. Each tank typically requires three press cycles, and Montgom- ery admits it's definitely time for a new press—although he's been very happy with the press, calling it a real "work horse." The limited capacity of his press means Montgomery needs to take white grapes to St. Jorge Winery to press there, and then haul the juice back to his winery for fermentation. Montgomery has been making a dry Viognier since 2008. He ferments the juice cold in stainless steel to ensure the wine has a crisp, clean finish. "I started off doing a partial-barrel ferment and tank ferment, and it wasn't crispy clean like I wanted—and of course it wasn't, it was in neutral French oak. I just like the racy crispness of this," Montgomery said of his current-release Viognier. To inhibit malolactic fermentation in his whites, Montgomery treats the juice with Lysozyme from Scott Labs. He inoc- ulates his reds for MLF with VP41, also from Scott Labs. Each of the 1,500-gallon Criveller Group tanks is equipped with a built-in irrigator for pump overs. The crush pad and receiving area leads to the main fermentation room. (Continued on page 57) G R A P E G R O W I N G W I N E M A K I N G TECHNICAL REVIEW