Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/246577
BARRELS Finished barrels wait for shipment at A&K Cooperage in Higbee, Mo. Trees on a north-facing slope tend to provide better wood for barrels because the trees see less sun. That results in tighter grain and straighter trunks as the trees reach for the sunlight. Kirby says he's been to Napa Valley at least 40 times and has a wine cellar from which he'll pull special bottles for charity auctions. He says he's heard the criticism of American oak, and as one might guess, it doesn't mean much to him. "I don't think anyone can tell you what's good wine but you," he says. Daniel Baron, winemaker at Silver Oak Cellars, says the company first went with American oak to save money. Eventually, though, it became clear that the tannins in American oak integrated well, meaning the wines could be enjoyed soon after release yet still had the structure for aging. Now the wine is partly defined by its style, and Baron says he has no intention of changing the oak program. Baron says American oak has a tradition with some of California's other iconic brands: Andre Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyard used it in decades past, and it is still used by Ridge Vineyards. The winery's 2010 vintage of its classic Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon received nearly 100% new American oak. He says the company tried several different sources for barrels but ultimately determined that the best oak came from the area right around A&K Cooperage. To ensure consistency, Baron said the winery opted to buy a stake in the cooperage. While A&K's success was secured through Silver Oak, Dale Kirby says the cooperage has been able to build the business by adding other accounts. He says the company is now in a good position to expand its business, although he's not sure how that will transpire. The fact that large companies like World Cooperage and smaller coopers like A&K are confident about the future and looking to expand with the American wine industry is indicative of the increasing demand for American oak barrels. www.walterjelly.com 608.831.1405 38 W in es & V i ne s F E B R UARY 20 14 whj wine print.indd 1 2/6/13 5:59:47 PM