Issue link: http://winesandvines.uberflip.com/i/246577
WINEMAKING material from dozens of grape samples was published in the "Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences." Their research showed, first, that different wine regions consistently show different microbial DNA profiles: That is, there really is something tangible and distinctive about Napa terroir versus Sonoma or the Sierra Foothills. Second, these microbial populations vary by climate factors, vintages and cultivars: Vineyard populations morph from year to year, and Chardonnay plays host to different bugs from Cabernet. Some good bugs, some bad ones, some where we don't have a clue. The PNAS article is full of telling little details, many of which could translate into actual vineyard and winery procedures and decisions. Zinfandel fermentations, for example, are notorious for developing high levels of volatile acidity. Is that just how Zin is, or is it a byproduct of frequently high alcohol levels? No, it's probably because Zinfandel grapes draw a crowd of Gluconobacter, which means What goes into wineries need to pay special attention to sulfite additions and making complex oxygen exposure. wines is, well, The Mills lab at Davis has not yet traced these differences in complex, and microbial patterns through to making the stew their sensory results, and it's quite possible that a lot of the simpler may not myriad critters found on grapemake it better. vines and in vineyards have no measurable effect on anything in the glass. Still, the evidence is compelling that wine fermentations involve lots more than bins of fruit and bags of yeast. What goes into making complex wines is, well, complex, and making the stew simpler may not make it better. Guest winemaker rant Normally I would wrap up here with a short rant about monochromatic winemaking, but instead I'll let a real winemaker do it for me. Wes Hagen at Clos Pepe in Santa Barbara's Santa Rita Hills certainly doesn't go out of his way to court MOG and its influences. In the eternal Pinot Noir debate about the pros and cons of whole-cluster fermentations, stems and all, he is on the no-cluster squad, feeling you can get plenty of structure without stems and won't have to worry about broccoli aromas. But there are limits to how clean he wants his crush pad to be: "I believe great vineyards make great wine, and the industry is getting so competitive that I believe this movement toward sterilized, perfect fruit can suck some of the soul out of a place and a vintage. This is what I tell young winemakers all the time: Someone is always going to try to sell you something to make your wine better: an optical sorter, enzymes, tannins, new barrels, etc. Technology is not to be ignored, but it should also be designated as the distraction that it represents. Great wine represents a time and a place and the human craft that touches it. This push for over-clean fruit is a push to make wines with pure fruit character that will impress critics in blind tastings, which is not in itself a bad thing, but I do believe a wine's true purpose is to integrate into an experience at the table, and I find perfectly fruity wines boring. I want to taste the character, and I do believe you can scrub it off if you're not careful." VinoVisitors spend 47% more on wine purchases. VinoVisit is FREE for wineries Large or small—reservations or walk-ins. We can help any winery attract more visitors and grow sales. VinoVisit is FREE for wineries to use--that's right. FREE. Claim your winery's profile page today and start to get your share of the $14 million VinoVisitors spend each year with our clients. Ask about our new app and how it can monetize your winery's Facebook traffic. Call to schedule a demo today. 888-252-8990 Or get started immediately and set up your profile. VinoVisit.com/winery-sign-up 1040 Main Street, Napa California | Since 2009 Tim Patterson is the author of "Home Winemaking for Dummies." He writes about wine and makes his own in Berkeley, Calif. Years of experience as a journalist, combined with a contrarian streak, make him interested in getting to the bottom of wine stories, casting a critical eye on conventional wisdom in the process. Win es & Vin es F EB RUA RY 20 14 31