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JUNE NEWS New Thinking in the Brett Debate UC Davis researchers create Brettanomyces aroma wheel Dr. L S ind a B isson a nd L ucy J oseph/ UC Da vis an Rafael, Calif.—As much as it's reviled, the yeast Brettanomyces has its supporters in those who think a little bit of barnyard or wet dog imparts a distinct identity to their wines. The clean, modern winemaking practices of the sort espoused by the University of California, Davis, have long placed Brett squarely in the menace category. But Dr. Linda Bisson, who studies the metabolic pathways of yeast at UC Davis, likens Brett to a color in an artist's palette. Granted, it might be a color similar to a brash, fluorescent green that is best used sparingly, she told Wines & Vines. Bisson and UC Davis Viticulture & Enology Department staff member Lucy Joseph are working on a Brett aroma wheel to catalog the smells that can be associated with the yeast. The wheel is the result of a study the two performed on a collection of 83 Brett strains, 17 of which were identified as positive and five Savory, veggie, fruity and floral are four spokes in the Brettanomyces Aroma Wheel. as negative by a sensory panel. Strains that garnered a negative reaction were those that generated more aromas in the rotten and putrid category, as opposed to positive characteristics such as floral and spicy. These findings and others were discussed at a forum at UC Davis earlier this year. Bisson said Brett's effect on a wine is influenced by the strain found in the vineyard or winery as well as cultural and regional differences in taste. What may be considered a flaw in a Napa Valley Cabernet could be described as integral to the essence of a Burgundian Pinot. "Spoilage is in the eye of the beholder," she said. Chris Howell, winemaker and general manager of Cain Vineyard and Winery on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley was the only winemaker at the UC Davis forum who didn't agree with describing Brett as a "spoilage" yeast. Instead, Howell sees it as something that can help make wines that are compelling rather than just clean and unflawed. "The magic of wine is that it can transcend the winemaker—and these are the wines that we find most interesting, the wines we can't forget." —Andrew Adams The original, BOTTLE-MATIC-II 3 YEAR WARRANTY INCLUDED Front and Back! MADE IN USA! 21 day trial $1800 for Wines & Vines Readers! Front & Back! Label any cylindrical container fast and accurately from ½" to 8" diameter, @ Speeds of 1200 Pcs. per hour. NOT A CHEAP, IMPORTED KNOCK-OFF! ISPENSA-MATIC DLabel Dispensers STOP Wasting Time Labeling by Hand! Price subject to change without notice. 28220 Playmor Beach Rd, Rocky Mount, MO 65072 Call Toll Free: 1 (800) 325-7303 or (573) 392-7684 FAX:(573) 392-1757; E-mail: info@dispensamatic.com Web: http://www.bottle-labeler.com 2/01/10 Win es & V i n es JU NE 20 13 15