Wines & Vines

December 2018 Collectors Edition

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Barrels A traditional tool still relevant in modern winemaking In a change that's more incremental than radical, barrels have remained a critical piece of equip- ment for making wine despite all the other changes and innovations in wineries. Ask a wine- maker what he or she thinks is the most important quality of a barrel, and the answer is typically consistency. With each vintage bringing its own set of ever-changing conditions, minimizing varia- tion in barrels is a huge help to achieve a certain winemaking style or profile. After European coo- pers began investing in the United States, such as Nadalie USA opening a cooperage in 1980, Amer- ica's own coopers, which had been wholly focused on whiskey, saw an opportunity to differentiate and expand. Cooperages 1912 Napa, which sells the popular World Cooperage brand of barrels and the premium line TW Boswell barrels as well as owning a stave mill and cooperage in France, has become one of the biggest wine barrel produc- ers in the world. European cooperages have sought to build on centuries of tradition with such innovations as Oakscan by Tonnellerie Radoux and the ICÔNE oak composition analysis by Se- guin Moreau, which has led to better-built and more reliable barrels. American oak wine barrels have also steadily improved, with European in- vestment such as Chêne & Cie buying Canton Cooperage and improving production. A few coo- pers, such as Tonnellerie O, have begun to offer American oak from forests in specific states. SEGUIN MOREAU

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