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54 WINES&VINES October 2018 OAK BARRELS W ithin the last 10 years, modern winemaking has veered away from heavy oak influence. Per- haps this is because we, as a New World wine region, are only now beginning to embrace tradition, practicing Old World wine- making techniques. Or maybe we're finally beginning to understand our definition of ter- roir, producing fruit, and thus wines, suitable to climate and soil. Or perhaps it's America's new-found foodie culture driving this trend, as consumers begin to understand wine as an ingredient to a well-rounded meal, specifically searching for wines that complement and don't overpower the palate. "It is the evolution of the wine consumer," said Ron Celaya, sales representative for Demptos USA in Napa, Calif., who said, for the most part, his winemaking clients are no lon- ger looking for the phenolic, smoky aromas that present themselves as bacon, burnt coffee and black pepper. Instead, they're looking for what Celaya refers to as "less obvious" and "more complex" aromas, including white choc- olate, potpourri and baking spice. "Those (harsher) flavors don't lend themselves well to food pairing," Celaya said, adding that he's noticed the American palate has been evolving for a while: Consumers are looking for wine that complements rather than challenges what's created in the kitchen. Elizabeth Van Emst, general manager at Cooperages 1912 Napa, had a similar observa- tion, stating that, especially in the super-pre- mium wine categories and direct-to-consumer programs, requests from her winemaking cli- ents for lighter toasts have become much more prevalent. "Barrel demand is ultimately driven by the end consumer's tastes. Balanced wines with complexity and length are what wine drinkers are demanding," she said. Celaya has also observed that American vi- ticulture, in general, has become more bal- anced. "We're getting grapes that are fresher, more vibrant with acidity. You certainly don't want to ruin what the viticultural team has done by using strongly toasted barrels," he said. So, the "hype" of heavy or heavy-plus toast — which results in an abundance of char and caramelization in the wood — is long gone, according to Celaya and Van Emst. A step away from this aggressive style is a medium-long toast, a process that toasts the barrel over a smaller fire for a longer time, cooking the wood slowly yet deeply as the cooper turns the barrel more frequently to ensure harsh aromas aren't absorbed. More Burgundian in style, Celaya said, this level of toast provides a smoother tannin structure, more spice than smoke notes, a midpalate softness, and a lengthy finish during trials with winemakers. He finds that his clients working with Cabernet are among the most likely to request this level of toast, but that a few working with Pinot Noir will also use a certain percentage of medium toast for a "pop of savory elements, a midpalate lift and velvety texture." Paolo Bouchard, business development manager for Bouchard Cooperages in Napa, said many of his clients are now requesting even less toast impact: light-long toast, which he explains as the same process as medium long, but with the toast taking place on an even smaller fire. "We're seeing more and more requests for light-long toasts on delicate reds or aromatic white varietals," Bouchard said. Location, location, location The flavor profile and textural influence of a barrel starts in the forest. Just as terroir influences grapevines and the resulting wines, so do different forests impart specific KEY POINTS Less obvious toast and oak influence are more popular as consumer preferences evolve. Forest-specific barrels provide consistency in structure, aromas and flavors. Winemakers turn to alternative woods for additional, low-impact barrel solutions. Coopers have developed technology to produce reliable, consistent barrels. Building Better Barrels As modern American winemaking veers away from heavy oak influence, it's become more important to understand the available options for aging wine By Stacy Briscoe